Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
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Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
A tragedy succeeded, in which she sustained four characters. This, by
the working of her forehead and the agitation of her breast, gave her
more trouble, but her fluency was unimpeded; and when she closed, the
company was in raptures. Her gestures were more passionate in this
performance, but, even with my imperfect knowledge of the language,
they always seemed called for and in taste. Her friends rose as she
sunk back on the sofa, gathered round her, and took her hands,
overwhelming her with praises. It was a very exciting scene
altogether, and I went away with new ideas of poetical power and
enthusiasm.
* * * * *
One lodges like a prince in Florence, and pays like a beggar. For the
information of artists and scholars desirous to come abroad, to whom
exact knowledge on the subject is important, I will give you the
inventory and cost of my whereabout.
I sit at this moment in a window of what was formerly the archbishop's
palace--a noble old edifice, with vast staircases and resounding
arches, and a hall in which you might put a dozen of the modern brick
houses of our country. My chamber is as large as a ball-room, on the
second story, looking out upon the garden belonging to the house,
which extends to the eastern wall of the city. Beyond this lies one of
the sweetest views in the world--the ascending amphitheatre of hills,
in whose lap lies Florence, with the tall eminence of _Fiesolé_ in the
centre, crowned with the monastery in which Milton passed six weeks,
while gathering scenery for his Paradise. I can almost count the panes
of glass in the windows of the bard's room; and, between the fine old
building and my eye, on the slope of the hill, lie thirty or forty
splendid villas, half-buried in trees (Madame Catalani's among them),
piled one above another on the steep ascent, with their columns and
porticoes, as if they were mock temples in a vast terraced garden. I
do not think there is a window in Italy that commands more points of
beauty. Cole, the American landscape painter, who occupied the room
before me, took a sketch from it. For neighbors, the Neapolitan
ambassador lives on the same floor, the two Greenoughs in the
ground-rooms below, and the palace of one of the wealthiest nobles of
Florence overlooks the garden, with a front of eighty-five windows,
from which you are at liberty to select any two or three, and imagine
the most celebrated beauty of Tuscany behind the crimson curtains--the
daughter of this same noble bearing that reputation. She was pointed
out to me at the Opera a night or two since, and I have seen as famous
women with less pretensions.
For the interior, my furniture is not quite upon the same scale, but I
have a clean snow-white bed, a calico-covered sofa, chairs and tables
enough, and pictures three deep from the wall to the floor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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