Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
bosoms; and, if it were as a place of retreat and silence alone, the
churches are an inestimable blessing to them. It seems to me, that any
sincere Christian, of whatever faith, would find a pleasure in going
into a sacred place and sitting down in the heat of the day, to be
quiet and devotional for an hour. It would promote the objects of any
denomination in our country, I should think, if the churches were thus
left always open.
Under the cathedral of Bologna is a _subterranean confession-chapel_
--as singular and impressive a device as I ever saw. It is dark
like a cellar, the daylight faintly struggling through a painted
window above the altar, and the two solitary wax candles giving
a most ghastly intensity to the gloom. The floor is paved with
tombstones, the inscriptions and death's heads of which you feel under
your feet as you walk through. The roof is so vaulted that every tread
is reverberated endlessly in hollow tones. All around are the
confession-boxes, with the pierced plates, at which the priest within
puts his ear, worn with the lips of penitents, and at one of the sides
is a deep cave, far within which, as in a tomb, lies a representation
on limestone of our Saviour, bleeding as he came from the cross, with
the apostles, made of the same cadaverous material, hanging over him!
We have happened, by a fortunate chance, upon an extraordinary day in
Bologna--a _festa_, that occurs but once in ten years. We went out as
usual after breakfast this morning, and found the city had been
decorated over-night in the most splendid and singular manner. The
arcades of some four or five streets in the centre of the town were
covered with rich crimson damask, the pillars completely bound, and
the arches dressed and festooned with a degree of gorgeousness and
taste as costly as it was magnificent. The streets themselves were
covered with cloths stretched above the second stories of the houses
from one side to the other, keeping off the sun entirely, and making
in each street one long tent of a mile or more, with two lines of
crimson columns at the sides, and festoons of gauze, of different
colors, hung from window to window in every direction. It was by far
the most splendid scene I ever saw. The people were all there in their
gayest dresses, and we probably saw in the course of the day every
woman in Bologna. My friends, the painters, give it the palm for
beauty over all the cities they had seen. There was a grand procession
in the morning, and in the afternoon the bands of the Austrian army
made the round of the decorated streets, playing most delightfully
before the principal houses. In the evening there was an illumination,
and we wandered up and down till midnight through the fairy scene,
almost literally "dazzled and drunk with beauty."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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