Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
Two windows of close grating looked on either side upon the long canal
below, and let in the only light to the covered passage. It is a
gloomy place within, beautifully as its light arch hangs in the air
from without. It was easy to employ the imagination as we stood on the
stone where Childe Harold had stood before us, and conjured up in
fancy the despair and agony that must have been pressed into the last
glance at light and life that had been sent through those barred
windows. Across this bridge the condemned were brought to receive
their sentence in the Chamber of the _Ten_, or to be confronted with
bloody inquisitors, and then were led back over it to die. The last
light that ever gladdened their eyes came through those close bars,
and the gay Giudecca in the distance, with its lively waters covered
with boats, must have made that farewell glance to a Venetian bitter
indeed. The side next the prison is now massively walled up. We
stayed, silently musing at the windows, till the old cicerone ventured
to remind us that his time was precious.
Ordering the gondola round to the stairs of the piazetta, we strolled
for the first time into the church of San Marc. The four famous bronze
horses stood with their dilated nostrils and fine action over the
porch, bringing back to us Andrea Doria, and his threat; and as I
remembered the ruined palace of the old admiral at Genoa, and glanced
at the Austrian soldier upon guard, in the very shadow of the winged
lion, I could not but feel most impressively the moral of the
contrast. The lesson was not attractive enough, however, to keep us in
a burning sun, and we put aside the heavy folds of the drapery and
entered. How deliciously cool are these churches in Italy! We walked
slowly up toward the distant altar. An old man rose from the base of
one of the pillars, and put out his hand for charity. It is an
incident that meets one at every step, and with half a glance at his
face I passed on. I was looking at the rich mosaic on the roof, but
his features lingered in my mind. They grew upon me still more
strongly; and as I became aware of the full expression of misery and
pride upon them, I turned about to see what had become of him. My two
friends had done each the very same thing, with the same feeling of
regret, and were talking of the old man when I came back to them. We
went to the door, and looked all about the square, but he was no where
to be seen. It is singular that he should have made the same
impression upon all of us, of an old Venetian nobleman in poverty.
Slight as my glance was, the noble expression of sadness about his
fine white head and strong features, are still indelible in my memory.
The prophecy which Byron puts into the mouth of the condemned Doge, is
still true in every particular:--
----"When the Hebrew's in thy palaces,
The Hun in thy high places, and the Greek
Walks o'er thy mart, and smiles on it for his;
When _thy patricians beg their bitter bread_," &c.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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