Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
We have passed a day in visiting palaces. There are some eight or ten
in Venice, whose galleries are still splendid. We landed first at the
stairs of the _Palazzo Grimani_, and were received by an old family
servant, who sat leaning on his knees, and gazing idly into the canal.
The court and staircase were ornamented with statuary, that had not
been moved for centuries. In the ante-room was a fresco painting by
Georgione, in which there were two _female_ cherubs, the first of that
sex I ever saw represented. They were beautifully contrasted with the
two male cherubs, who completed the picture, and reminded me strongly
of Greenough's group in sculpture. After examining several rooms,
tapestried and furnished in such a style as befitted the palace of a
Venetian noble, when Venice was in her glory, we passed on to the
gallery. The best picture in the first room was a large one by Cigoli,
_the bath of Cleopatra_. The four attendants of the fair Egyptian are
about her, and one is bathing her feet from a rich vase. Her figure is
rather a voluptuous one, and her head is turned, but without alarm, to
Antony, who is just putting aside the curtain and entering the room.
It is a piece of fine coloring, rather of the Titian school, and one
of the few good pictures left by the English, who have bought up
almost all the private galleries of Venice.
We stopped next at the stairs of the noble old _Barberigo_ Palace, in
which Titian lived and died. We mounted the decaying staircases,
imagining the choice spirits of the great painter's time, who had
trodden them before us, and (as it was for ages the dwelling of one of
the proudest races of Venice) the beauty and rank that had swept up
and down those worn slabs of marble on nights of revel, in the days
when Venice was a paradise of splendid pleasure. How thickly come
romantic fancies in such a place as this. We passed through halls hung
with neglected pictures to an inner room, occupied only with those of
Titian. Here he painted, and here is a picture half finished, as he
left it when he died. His famous _Magdalen_, hangs on the wall,
covered with dirt; and so, indeed, is everything in the palace. The
neglect is melancholy. On a marble table stood a plaster bust of
Titian, moulded by himself in his old age. It is a most noble head,
and it is difficult to look at it, and believe he could have painted a
picture which hangs just against it--_his own daughter in the arms of
a satyr_. There is an engraving from it in one of the souvenirs; but
instead of a satyr's head, she holds a casket in her hands, which,
though it does not sufficiently account for the delight of her
countenance, is an improvement upon the original. Here, too, are
several slight sketches of female heads, by the same master. Oh how
beautiful they are! There is one, less than the size of life, which I
would rather have than his Magdalen.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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