Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
I spent a week at the baths of Lucca, which is about sixty miles north
of Florence, and the Saratoga of Italy. None of the cities are
habitable in summer, for the heat, and there flocks all the world to
bathe and keep cool by day, and dance and intrigue by night, from
spring to autumn. It is very like the month of June in our country in
many respects, and the differences are not disagreeable. The scenery
is the finest of its kind in Italy. The whole village is built about a
bridge across the river Lima, which meets the Serchio a half mile
below. On both sides of the stream the mountains rise so abruptly,
that the houses are erected against them, and from the summits on both
sides you look directly down on the street. Half-way up one of the
hills stands a cluster of houses, overlooking the valley to fine
advantage, and these are rather the most fashionable lodgings. Round
the base of this mountain runs the Lima, and on its banks for a mile
is laid out a superb road, at the extremity of which is another
cluster of buildings, called the Villa, composed of the duke's palace
and baths, and some fifty lodging-houses. This, like the pavilion at
Saratoga, is usually occupied by invalids and people of more retired
habits. I have found no hill scenery in Europe comparable to the baths
of Lucca. The mountains ascend so sharply and join so closely, that
two hours of the sun are lost, morning and evening, and the heat is
very little felt. The valley is formed by four or five small
mountains, which are clothed from the base to the summit with the
finest chestnut woods; and dotted over with the nest-like cottages of
the Luccese peasants, the smoke from which, morning and evening,
breaks through the trees, and steals up to the summits with an effect
than which a painter could not conceive anything more beautiful. It is
quite a little paradise; and with the drives along the river on each
side at the mountain foot, and the trim winding-paths in the hills,
there is no lack of opportunity for the freest indulgence of a love of
scenery or amusement.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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