Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
and passed on to the printing office--the first _clean_ one I ever
saw, and quite the best appointed. Here the monks print their Bibles,
and prayer-books in really beautiful Armenian type, beside almanacs,
and other useful publications for Constantinople, and other parts of
Turkey. The monk wrote his name at our request (Pascal Aucher) in the
blank leaves of our books, and we parted from him at the water-stairs
with sincere regret. I recommend this monastery to all travellers to
Venice.
On our return we passed near an island, upon which stands a single
building--an insane hospital. I was not very curious to enter it, but
the gondolier assured us that it was a common visit for strangers, and
we consented to go in. We were received by the keeper, who went
through the horrid scene like a regular cicerone, giving us a cold and
rapid history of every patient that arrested our attention. The men's
apartment was the first, and I should never have supposed them insane.
They were all silent, and either read or slept like the inmates of
common hospitals. We came to a side door, and as it opened, the
confusion of a hundred tongues burst through, and we were introduced
into the apartment for women. The noise was deafening. After
traversing a short gallery, we entered a large hall, containing
perhaps fifty females. There was a simultaneous smoothing back of the
hair and prinking of the dress through the room. These the keeper
said, were the well-behaved patients, and more innocent and
happy-looking people I never saw. If to be happy is to be wise, I
should believe with the mad philosopher, that the world and the
lunatic should change names. One large, fine-looking woman took upon
herself to do the honors of the place, and came forward with a
graceful curtesy and a smile of condescension and begged the ladies to
take off their bonnets, and offered me a chair. Even with her
closely-shaven head and coarse flannel dress, she seemed a lady. The
keeper did not know her history. Her attentions were occasionally
interrupted by a stolen glance at the keeper, and a shrinking in of
the shoulders, like a child that had been whipped. One handsome and
perfectly healthy-looking girl of eighteen, walked up and down the
hall, with her arms folded, and a sweet smile on her face, apparently
lost in pleasing thought, and taking no notice of us. Only one was in
bed, and her face might have been a conception of Michael Angelo for
horror. Her hair was uncut, and fell over her eyes, her tongue hung
from her mouth, her eyes were sunken and restless, and the deadly
pallor over features drawn into the intensest look of mental agony,
completing a picture that made my heart sick. Her bed was clean, and
she was as well cared for as she could be, apparently.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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