Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
We arrived at Bologna just in time to get to the opera. Malibran in
_La Gazza Ladra_ was enough to make one forget more than the fatigue
of a day's travel. She sings as well as ever and plays much better,
though she had been ill, and looked thin. In the prison scene, she was
ghastlier even than the character required. There are few pleasures in
Europe like such singing as hers, and the Italians, in their excellent
operas, and the cheap rate at which they can be frequented, have a
resource corresponding to everything else in their delightful country.
Every comfort and luxury is better and cheaper in Italy than
elsewhere, and it is a pity that he who can get his wine for three
cents a bottle, his dinner and his place at the opera for ten, and has
lodgings for anything he chooses to pay, can not find leisure, and
does not think it worth the trouble, to look about for means to be
free. It is vexatious to see nature lavishing such blessings on
slaves.
The next morning we visited a palace, which, as it is not mentioned in
the guide-books of travel, I had not before seen--the _Lambaccari_. It
was full of glorious pictures, most of them for sale. Among others we
were captivated with a Magdalen of unrivalled sweetness by _Guido
Carracci_. It has been bought since by Mr. Cabot, of Boston, who
passed through Bologna the day after, and will be sent to America, I
am happy to say, immediately. There were also six of "Charles the
Second's beauties,"--portraits of the celebrated women of that gay
monarch's court, by Sir Peter Lely--ripe, glowing English women, more
voluptuous than chary-looking, but pictures of exquisite workmanship.
There were nine or ten apartments to this splendid palace, all crowded
with paintings by the first masters, and the surviving Lambaccari is
said to be selling them one by one for bread. It is really melancholy
to go through Italy, and see how her people are suffering, and her
nobles starving under oppression.
We crossed the Appenines in two of the finest days that ever shone,
and descending through clouds and mist to the Tuscan frontier, entered
the lovely valley of the Arno, sparkling in the sunshine, with all its
palaces and spires, as beautiful as ever. I am at Florence once more,
and parting from the delightful party with whom I have travelled for
two months. I start for Rome to-morrow, in company with five artists.
LETTER XLI.
JOURNEY TO THE ETERNAL CITY--TWO ROADS TO ROME--SIENNA--THE
PUBLIC SQUARE--AN ITALIAN FAIR--THE CATHEDRAL--THE
LIBRARY--THE THREE GRECIAN GRACES--DANDY OFFICERS--PUBLIC
PROMENADE--LANDSCAPE VIEW--LONG GLEN--A WATERFALL--A
CULTIVATED VALLEY--THE TOWN OF AQUAPENDENTE--SAN
LORENZO--PLINY'S FLOATING ISLANDS--MONTEFIASCONE--
VITERBO--PROCESSION OF FLOWER AND DANCING GIRLS TO THE
VINTAGE--ASCENT OF THE MONTECIMINO--THE ROAD OF THIEVES--LAKE
VICO--BACCANO--MOUNT SORACTE--DOME OF ST. PETER'S, ETC.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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