Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
I lost myself in coming home, and following a priest's direction to
the Corso, came unexpectedly upon the "Pantheon," which I recognised
at once. This wonder of architecture has no questionable beauty. A
dunce would not need to be told that it was perfect. Its Corinthian
columns fall on the eye with that sense of fulness that seems to
answer an instinct of beauty in the very organ. One feels a fault or
an excellence in architecture long before he can give the feeling a
name; and I can see why, by Childe Harold and others, this heathen
temple is called "the pride of Rome," though I cannot venture on a
description. The faultless interior is now used as a church, and there
lie Annibal Carracci and the divine Raphael--two names worthy of the
place, and the last, of a shrine in every bosom capable of a
conception of beauty. Glorious Raphael! If there was no other relic in
Rome, one would willingly become a pilgrim to his ashes.
With my countryman and friend, Mr. Cleveland, I stood in the Roman
forum by the light of a clear half moon. The soft silver rays poured
in through the ruined columns of the Temple of Fortune and threw our
shadows upon the bases of the tall shafts near the capitol, the
remains, I believe, of the temple erected by Augustus to Jupiter
Tonans. Impressive things they are, even without their name, standing
tall and alone, with their broken capitals wreathed with ivy, and
neither roof nor wall to support them, where they were placed by hands
that have mouldered for centuries. It is difficult to rally one's
senses in such a place, and be awake coldly to the scene. We stood, as
we supposed, in the Rostrum. The noble arch, still almost perfect,
erected by the senate to Septimius Severus, stood up clear and lofty
beside us, the three matchless and lonely columns of the supposed
temple of Jupiter Stator threw their shadows across the Forum below,
the great arch, built at the conquest of Jerusalem to Titus, was
visible in the distance, and above them all, on the gentle ascent of
the Palatine, stood the ruined palace of the Cesars, the sharp edges
of the demolished walls breaking up through vines and ivy, and the
mellow moon of Italy softening rock and foliage into one silver-edged
mass of shadow. It seems as if the very genius of the picturesque had
arranged these immortal ruins. If the heaps of fresh excavation were
but overgrown with grass, no poet nor painter could better image out
the Rome of his dream. It surpasses fancy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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