Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
I took an indolent stroll with a friend this morning to the _Hopital
des Invalides_, on the other side of the river. Here, not long since,
were twenty-five thousand old soldiers. There are but five thousand
now remaining, most of them having been dismissed by the Bourbons. It
is of course one of the most interesting spots in France; and of a
pleasant day there is no lounge where a traveller can find so much
matter for thought, with so much pleasure to the eye. We crossed over
by the _Pons Louis Quinze_, and kept along the bank of the river to
the esplanade in front of the hospital. There was never a softer
sunshine, or a more deliciously-tempered air; and we found the old
veterans out of doors, sitting upon the cannon along the rampart, or
halting about, with their wooden legs, under the trees, the pictures
of comfort and contentment. The building itself, as you know, is very
celebrated for its grandeur. The dome of the _Invalides_ rises upon
the eye from all parts of Paris, a perfect model of proportion and
beauty. It was this which Bonaparte ordered to be gilded, to divert
the people from thinking too much upon his defeat. It is a living
monument of the most touching recollections of him now. Positively the
blood mounts, and the tears spring to the eyes of the spectator, as he
stands a moment, and remembers what is around him in that place. To
see his maimed followers, creeping along the corridors, clothed and
fed by the bounty he left, in a place devoted to his soldiers alone,
their old comrades about them, and all glowing with one feeling of
devotion to his memory, to speak to them, to hear their stories
of--"_L'Empereur_" it is better than a thousand histories to make one
_feel_ the glory of "the great captain." The interior of the dome is
vast, and of a splendid style of architecture, and out from one of its
sides extends a superb chapel, hung all round with the tattered flags
taken in _his_ victories alone. Here the veterans of his army worship,
beneath the banners for which they fought. It is hardly appropriate, I
should think, to adorn thus the church of a "religion of peace;" but
while there, at least, we feel strangely certain, somehow, that it is
right and fitting; and when, as we stood deciphering the half-effaced
insignia of the different nations, the organ began to peal, there
certainly was anything but a jar between this grand music,
consecrated as it is by religious associations, and the thrilling and
uncontrolled sense in my bosom of Napoleon's glory. The anthem seemed
to _him_!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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