Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Tincture of ambergris 10½ oz.
Tincture of benzoin ½ lb.
Oil of lavender 150 grains.
Water of ammonia 1½ lb.
The tinctures are mixed with the ammonia by agitation and immediately
filled into bottles; the liquid should have a milky appearance. At
times 150 grains of white soap is added which aids in imparting to the
liquid the desired milky appearance. In fine eau de Luce the odor of
ambergris should predominate; this can be easily effected by increasing
the amount of tincture of ambergris.
B. ACID PERFUMES.
As there is a group of perfumes which is distinguished by their
characteristic odor of ammonia and which we have therefore called
ammoniacal, so there is an important series of articles containing
acetic acid which are used cosmetically as so-called toilet vinegars,
and in some washes.
Ordinary vinegar, _i.e._, water containing four to six per cent of
acetic acid, has, as is well known, a not unpleasant refreshing odor
and a pure acid taste. Pure acetic acid, now made in large quantities
and of excellent quality, is known commercially as glacial acetic acid.
In commerce, it is customary to designate any acetic acid containing
85 or more per cent of the absolute acid, as glacial acetic acid. In
chemical or pharmacopœial nomenclature, however, the glacial acid is
meant to be as near 100% as possible. In perfumery, an 85% acid is
sufficiently strong. It forms a colorless liquid with a narcotic odor
and an intensely acid taste; it congeals into glassy crystals at a
temperature of 8.5° C. (47° F.). The latter property is of importance
as showing the purity of the acid. Concentrated acetic acid, like
alcohol, dissolves aromatic substances, with which it forms perfumes
which differ from those made with alcohol mainly by their peculiar
refreshing after-odor which is due to the acetic acid.
Acetic acid can be saturated with various odors and thus furnish fine
perfumes; but for so-called toilet vinegars which are used as washes
the acetic acid must be properly diluted, since the concentrated acid
has pronounced caustic properties, reddens the skin, and may even
produce destructive effects on sensitive parts such as the lips.
AROMATIC VINEGAR (VINAIGRE AROMATIQUE).
Glacial acetic acid 2 lb.
Camphor 4¼ oz.
Oil of lavender ¾ oz.
Oil of mace 150 grains.
Oil of rosemary 150 grains.
Instead of the perfumes here given, finer odors may be employed for the
production of superior toilet vinegars; thus we find vinaigre ambré,
au musc, à la violette, au jasmin, etc., according to the perfume used.
As concentrated acetic acid dissolves most aromatic substances the
same as alcohol, all alcoholic perfumes may have their counterparts in
acetic acid; but the aromatics should never be added in so large amount
as to mask the characteristic odor of the acetic acid. A very pleasant
vinegar may be produced by combining an alcoholic with an acid perfume,
as in the following:
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