Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Besides the chemical products here enumerated, some others find
application in perfumery; we shall describe their properties in
connection with the articles into which they enter. In this connection
mention may be made of the fact that more and more aromatic substances
are now made artificially which were formerly obtained with difficulty
from plants. Besides vanillin mentioned above, cumarin, oil of
wintergreen, and some other products are prepared artificially.
Heliotropin and nerolin are artificially prepared substances,
possessing an odor resembling that of heliotrope and oil of neroli,
respectively, but not identical chemically with the natural odorous
substance. Artificial musk (Baur’s), is playing a rôle at present, but
is not identical with the natural substance.
C. The Colors used in Perfumery.
Some articles are colored intentionally; this remark applies
particularly to some soaps which not rarely are stained to correspond
to the color of the flower whose odor they bear; for instance, violet
soap. Some articles again are used only on account of their color;
for instance, paints, hair and whisker dyes. As we shall discuss this
subject at greater length in connection with these toilet articles, we
merely state here that nowadays every manufacturer can choose between a
large number of dyes of any color, all of which are innoxious; hence no
perfumer should under any circumstances use poisonous colors. This is
a matter of importance with substances intended for immediate contact
with the human body such as paints, lip salves, soaps, etc. All of
these colors will be described hereafter.
CHAPTER VII.
THE EXTRACTION OF ODORS.
Excepting the articles made in Turkey and India (especially oil of
rose), most aromatic substances are manufactured in southern France
and the adjoining regions of Italy, while a few (oils of peppermint
and lavender) are produced in England; a few also (oils of peppermint,
spearmint, wintergreen, sassafras, etc.) in the United States. However,
as we have stated above, it is possible to cultivate some plants from
which odors are extracted in the warm sections of this country, and
to obtain the most expensive perfumes from them. Among these plants
our experience leads us to suggest violets, roses, reseda, lavender,
mints, syringa, lilac, and several others to which the climate is
adapted.
The methods by which the odors can be extracted from the plants differ
according to the physical properties of the raw material and the
chemical composition of the aromatic substance. We shall here briefly
describe the methods thus far known, and at the same time add our
own experience in this most important part of the art of perfumery.
The aromatic substances are obtained by pressure, by distillation,
by maceration (infusion), by absorption (enfleurage) through air or
through carbonic acid, and by extraction.
PRESSURE.
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