Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
In a preceding chapter on the chemical properties of the vegetable
substances many of their characteristics have been described. In this
place we need only describe the physical properties of the essential
oils, and with some of them to lay stress on those peculiarities by
which they are specially differentiated. This knowledge is of the
greatest importance to the manufacturer of perfumery because no
single individual is in a position to prepare all aromatic substances
himself, but must rely on commerce for some of them; and in no group of
chemicals is adulteration as frequent and as difficult of demonstration
as among the aromatics. These adulterations are carried so far that
many essential oils occurring in commerce under certain names often
have nothing in common with the substance for which they are sold but
the name.
OIL OF CASSIE.
The oil of Acacia farnesiana is greenish-yellow and viscid; the density
and boiling-point, which are of the greatest importance with reference
to the genuineness of an essential oil, are not yet accurately known.
Moreover, this oil never occurs in commerce as such, but its odor is
present in perfumes, fixed oils, and pomades.
OIL OF ANISE
should be colorless or faintly yellow; a dark yellow color indicates
old and inferior quality. The characteristics of this oil are the odor,
its aromatic sweet taste, and especially the property of solidifying
at a comparatively high temperature, 10-15° C. (50-59° F.), which
is due to the separation of a stearopten, anethol. Oil of anise is
frequently adulterated with or replaced by oil of star-anise. The easy
solidification of the oil of anise is not always proof of its good
quality, for the oil from anise chaff, which congeals at a still higher
temperature, is sometimes mixed with it, and this has a less fine odor
than that distilled from the seed. One part by weight of oil of anise
is soluble in an equal weight of alcohol of 94%.
OIL OF BERGAMOT
has a pale yellow color which becomes greenish when the oil is kept in
copper vessels, and a strong agreeable odor. This oil requires the
greatest care in its preservation, as it abstracts oxygen from the air
with extreme rapidity, when it changes its superior odor so that it can
hardly be distinguished from oil of turpentine.
OIL OF BITTER ALMOND (OLEUM AMYGDALE AMARÆ),
when pure, is a colorless, refractive liquid which is heavier than
water. The vessels in which this product is preserved must be stoppered
air-tight, for in the air the oil very quickly changes into a white,
odorless mass of crystals consisting of benzoic acid.
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