Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The first-mentioned oil has a much finer aroma than the second. The two
oils are frequently confounded, even in prominent works of reference.
When oil of geranium or of rose geranium is directed to be used, the
French (or Algerian, or Spanish) oil should be employed. These cost
more than twice as much as the so-called Turkish or palmarosa oil.
OIL OF HELIOTROPE.
This oil which does not yet occur in commerce (we find merely the
pomade and the alcoholic extract of the latter) has been made by
the author experimentally; the most suitable method was found to be
extraction with petroleum ether. As the plant, Heliotropium peruvianum,
the source of this delightful odor, is frequently cultivated in
our gardens, the preparation of the oil by this method is to be
recommended, being less expensive and more rapid than by the use of
fat, while the product obtained with petroleum ether is as fine as that
extracted by alcohol from the pomade.
OIL OF ELDER (OLEUM SAMBUCI).
The remark made under the head of oil of lilac applies equally to this
oil. For the benefit of those who wish to make this oil in its pure
form we may add that it is absolutely necessary to select only the
freshest flowers, otherwise the odor will be very much impaired.
OIL OF JASMINE,
not to be confounded with the oil of Syringa or German jasmine
(Philadelphus coronarius), is colorless or yellowish and has a very
strong, almost narcotic odor. It is one of the most valuable and at the
same time most expensive aromatic substances employed in perfumery.
Genuine oil of jasmine can be obtained only from Southern France at
very high prices. What is usually sold as “oil of jasmine” is a fixed
oil impregnated with the aroma of jasmine.
OIL OF CHERRY-LAUREL
is not used as such in perfumery; at most cherry-laurel water may be
employed. But as this has the odor of oil of bitter almond and as
the presence of some prussic acid, on account of which the officinal
cherry-laurel water is used, is of no value to the perfumer and is,
in fact, undesirable, owing to its poisonous quality, we substitute
in all cases a corresponding quantity of oil of bitter almond for
cherry-laurel water.
OIL OF CULILABAN (OLEUM CULILAVANI)
is light brown, somewhat viscid; the odor recalls that of the oils of
cinnamon, sassafras, and clove. It has been used for scenting soap.
OIL OF CARAWAY (OLEUM CARI)
is light yellow and has an aromatic odor and burning taste. In
perfumery it is used only for very cheap odors and for scenting soap;
it finds its chief application in the manufacture of liqueurs.
OIL OF LAVENDER (OLEUM LAVANDULÆ).
This oil is of great importance to the perfumer and is imported in
unsurpassed quality from England (Mitcham); it is light yellow, has a
burning sharp taste, and is exceedingly sensitive to light and air,
under the action of which it loses its refreshing odor in a very brief
time and acquires a common smell recalling that of turpentine.
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