Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah & Meccah — Volume 2Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Islamic
Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah & Meccah — Volume 2
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Arabian Peninsula -- Description and travel
This was readily granted in pity for the old man, who became immensely
grateful. He offered at once to take Shaykh Nur into his Shugduf. The
Indian boy had already reduced to ruins the frail structure of his
Shibriyah by lying upon it lengthways, whereas prudent travellers sit
in it cross-legged and facing the camel. Moreover, he had been laughed
to scorn by the Badawin, who seeing him pull up his dromedary to mount
and dismount, had questioned his sex, and determined him to be
[p.127] a woman of the Miyan.[FN#3] I could not rebuke them; the poor
fellows timidity was a ridiculous contrast to the Badawis style of
mounting; a pull at the camels head, the left foot placed on the neck,
an agile spring, and a scramble into the saddle. Shaykh Nur, elated by
the sight of old Alis luxuries, promised himself some joyous hours; but
next morning he owned with a sigh that he had purchased splendour at
the extravagant price of happinessthe seniors tongue never rested
throughout the livelong night.
During our half-halt at Al-Suwayrkiyah we determined to have a small
feast; we bought some fresh dates, and we paid a dollar and a half for
a sheep. Hungry travellers consider liver and fry a dish to set before a
Shaykh. On this occasion, however, our enjoyment was marred by the
water; even Soyers dinners would scarcely charm if washed down with cups
of a certain mineral-spring found at Epsom.
We started at ten A.M. (Monday, 5th September) in a South-Easterly
direction, and travelled over a flat, thinly dotted with Desert
vegetation. At one P.M we passed a basaltic ridge; and then, entering a
long depressed line of country, a kind of valley, paced down it five
tedious hours. The Samum as usual was blowing hard, and it seemed to
affect the travellers tempers. In one place I saw a Turk, who could not
speak a word of Arabic, violently disputing with an Arab who could not
understand a word of Turkish. The pilgrim insisted upon adding to the
camels load a few dry sticks, such as are picked up for cooking. The
camel-man as perseveringly threw off the extra burthen. They screamed
with rage, hustled each other, and at last the Turk dealt the Arab a
heavy blow. I afterwards heard that the pilgrim was mortally wounded
that night, his stomach being ripped
[p.128] open with a dagger. On enquiring what had become of him, I was
assured that he had been comfortably wrapped up in his shroud, and
placed in a half-dug grave. This is the general practice in the case of
the poor and solitary, whom illness or accident incapacitates from
proceeding. It is impossible to contemplate such a fate without horror:
the torturing thirst of a wound,[FN#4] the burning sun heating the
brain to madness, andworst of all, for they do not wait till deaththe
attacks of the jackal, the vulture, and the raven of the wild.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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