Personal Narrative of Events, From 1799 to 1815Lovell, William Stanhope
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Personal Narrative of Events, From 1799 to 1815
Lovell, William Stanhope
Great Britain. Royal Navy -- Sea life
Such men as Lords Howe, Duncan, St. Vincent, Nelson, Saumarez, Keats,
Hallowell, &c., are not mushrooms of a day’s growth, but the experience
of a long and hazardous service in all parts of the world had braced
their nerves and trained their minds to the task, which they performed
with such _credit_ to themselves and _honour and glory to their
country_.
On the 8th September we sailed from this anchorage for Tarragona, which
place the French had evacuated, having first destroyed most of the guns
and blown up part of the fortifications. Everything looked miserable
and wretched in the extreme. Many of the houses were knocked to pieces,
and the poor inhabitants, returning back to view the birthplaces of
themselves and ancestors, found them reduced to a heap of ruins. I rode
with my agreeable passengers to Reus, the second largest town in the
province of Catalonia, where we dined after the Spanish fashion upon
olla podrida, and other messes, stuffed full of garlic and bad oil.
After walking about the town, and looking at a handsome church, the
windows of which were of stained glass, we returned on board and sailed
for Valencia. The peasantry of this province and of Catalonia are as
fine a race of men as I ever saw in any country--tall, strong, and well
made.
On the 15th September we anchored off the Grao de Valencia, and the
next morning communicated with our consul according to orders, and
landed Viscount and Viscountess Mahon and family, who took up their
abode with Mr. Tupper, our representative, who was very civil and
polite, and showed us the lions of the city. The cathedral was very
fine, from the top of which we had a most magnificent view of a very
fertile valley, producing rice, maize, flax, and other grain, besides
almond and vine trees, the latter covered with beautiful purple and
white grapes.
A small river runs past Valencia, over which are two tolerably fine
stone bridges. We had a view also of the lake of Albufera, from which
the French marshal, Suchet, derives his dukedom.
Valencia is one of the best towns I have seen in Spain, and the road
from the grao, or beach, is extremely pretty, having trees planted
on each side, to afford shelter from the sun. Neat little thatched
cottages, scattered here and there, put me for a short time in mind of
England.
After dinner at the consul’s, which was served up in the Spanish
style, we went to the opera, and sat in a box with some pretty Spanish
ladies, friends of Mr. Tupper. The opera was in honour of the Marquis
of Wellington. It represented the Spaniards driving the Moors out of
Spain; afterwards we had a fandango, and the whole concluded with a
farce, the subject taken from Gil Blas, where he entertains at supper
the sycophant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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