Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That CountrySmith, Archibald
History
Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That Country
Smith, Archibald
Peru -- Description and travel
We entered one of the houses in “Pueblo Viejo,” or ruins of an old
town so called, by the way-side, not far from the celebrated ruins of
the ancient city Leon de Huanuco, deemed by the natives as only second
to Cuzco—the capital of the empire of the Incas—in the wonders of its
masonry. We found the walls of this house, except where defaced by the
mischievous hands of man, quite entire, and one angle of the building
had yet retained the roof. The windows were small, but the outer door
of good size. The walls were as perpendicular as plumb and line in our
days could make them, though two stories high. These walls were built
with small stones, mostly flags; and between them a thin layer of mud
or clay cement. There were, within, stone partitions rising to the level
of the outward walls, making the compartments of the house so confined
that the roof was easily laid on by long and broad flags projecting from
the sides, on which they were steadied by a top-weight, and, meeting
at the centre, were so adjusted as to render the closing of the roof
perfect. The same appeared to have been the manner in which the floor of
the second story had been laid. At the roof, the flags were observed to
shoot forwards to some extent outside the wall, doubtless with a view to
preserve a perfect equilibrium,—as we have frequently seen on the smaller
houses of ancient Indian architecture, which abound near the village of
Ambo on the heights of Andaguaylla. The lofty and weather-worn peaks of
this estate go to form the ridge of the eastern Cordillera, where the
path from these summits descends towards the pueblo of Yuramarca on the
verge of the Montaña, known in regal times as the asylum of the fugitive
criminal.
This hacienda, partaking of the climate of the torrid and frigid zones,
and consisting of successive table-lands and steep hills, has frigid
summits and ever-blooming dales. Its lakes of _Rumichaca_, so named
because their waters escape under a natural bridge of rock; its Indian
moats and fortifications on the heights of Rucrun, and the ruins of
which we have just made mention; its woods of alder and perejil; its
bamboo thickets, numerous dingles, and silvery waterfalls; its rapacious
puma; its herds of deer; its narrow pathways and slippery pastures, from
whence the grazing ox so often rolls to the fathomless ravine,—are still
present to our mind in one group, with the lovely conjunction of the
cultivated vales of Huacar and Huaylas, and the watery cross formed by
the confluence of their respective streams, where the river of Huanuco
commences its gently winding course. All these crowd into our retrospect,
as they are viewed by the imagination in one splendid landscape from
the commanding eminences of this fine estate, in contrast with all the
boundless mountain-scenery stretching to the west.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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