Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That CountrySmith, Archibald
History
Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That Country
Smith, Archibald
Peru -- Description and travel
At Huaramayo the temperature is intermediate between that of Sierra
and the coast; and, as in the warm inland valleys in the centre of the
Andes, so here, in a region of corresponding benignancy on the western
acclivity of the same great mountain pile, we have the tree called molle,
or mulli, in abundance along the river’s edge. This tree is much prized
as fuel; and the sugar-refiners of the interior use the ashes from it,
in preference to those from any other wood, on account of their higher
alkaline properties, and consequent efficiency in purifying the cane
juice while being boiled down to a proper consistence to be cast in
moulds. The Inca tribe, as we learn from Garcilaso de la Vega,[26] made
a highly valued and medicinal beer, which some of the Indians of the
interior still occasionally prepare, from the clusters of small-grained
fruit that hang gracefully and abundantly from this pretty tree. We
have said that the climate here corresponds to that of the warm central
valleys of the Andes; but though analogous in several respects, yet
there is this marked difference, that at Huaramayo, and other headlands
like Huaramayo, as, for example, Surco, on the San Mateo route to the
Sierra from Lima, there is neither winter nor summer, but one perpetual
spring. It does not rain here for several months in the year, as in the
more inland vales; but it agrees with them in being out of the sphere of
frosts, and exempted from the raw fogs and sultry heat of the coast. At
Surco, Huaramayo, and other similar localities in narrow glens extending
from the coast to the Cordilleras, the sun appears to rise late and to
set early, for it is only for a few hours in the middle of the day that
it shines strongly between the perpendicular and lofty hills of the
valley; and the mid-day heat arising from the powerful reflection of
the sun’s rays on the bare rocks is succeeded by a cool and agreeable
evening. Here then the atmospherical currents of mountains and coast
meet and neutralize each other,—the extremes of both disappear: and
the result is a delicious climate for the convalescent, whose tender
organs require a gentle uniform temperature, alike removed from the
extremes of heat and cold, dryness and moisture; and he who has the
precaution or prudence to keep in the shade while the sun crosses the
vale in the middle of the day, may, in truth, enjoy undisturbed all the
curative qualities of a delightful and renovating temperature. With this
important fact the delicate inhabitants of Lima are perfectly acquainted,
and they are accustomed to resort to the cabezadas, or headlands of
valleys, where these verge on the joint air of mountains and coast; as,
for example, Matucana, the favourite resting-place of phthisical and
hæmoptic individuals, who find themselves obliged to retire from the
capital, in order to recover health by visiting those celebrated sites
of convalescence—Tarma and Jauja.
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