THE southern plains are the most barren of the three great tracts of
American low lands; they stretch from Tierra del Fuego over 27 degrees
of latitude, or 1900 miles, nearly to Tucuman and the mountains of
Brazil. Palms grow at one end, deep snow covers the other many months in
the year. This enormous plain, of 1,620,000 square miles, begins on the
eastern part of Tierra del Fuego, which is a flat covered with trees,
and therefore superior to its continuation on the continent through
eastern Patagonia, which, for 800 miles from the land’s end to beyond
the Rio Colorado, is a desert of shingle.[52] It is occasionally
diversified by huge boulders, tufts of brown grass, low bushes armed
with spines, brine-lakes, incrustations of salt, white as snow, and by
black basaltic platforms, like plains of iron, at the foot of the Andes,
barren as the rest. Eastern Patagonia, however, is not one universal
flat, but a succession of shingly horizontal plains at higher and higher
levels, separated by long lines of cliffs or escarpments, the gable ends
of the tiers or plains. The ascent is small, for even at the foot of the
Andes the highest of these platforms is only 3000 feet above the ocean.
The plains are here and there intersected by a ravine or a stream, the
waters of which do not fertilize the blighted soil. The transition from
intense heat to intense cold is rapid, and piercing winds often rush in
hurricanes over these deserts, shunned even by the Indian, except when
he crosses them to visit the tombs of his fathers. The shingle ends a
few miles to the north of the Rio Colorado: there the red calcareous
earth of the Pampas begins, monotonously covered with coarse tufted
grass, without a tree or bush. This country, nearly as level as the sea
and without a stone, extends almost to the table-land of Brazil, and for
1000 miles between the Atlantic and the Andes, interrupted only at vast
distances by a solitary umbú, the only tree of this soil, rising like a
great landmark. This wide space, though almost destitute of water, is
not all of the same description. In the Pampas of Buenos Ayres there are
four distinct regions. For 180 miles west from Buenos Ayres they are
covered with thistles and lucern of the most vivid green so long as the
moisture from the rain lasts. In spring the verdure fades, and a month
afterwards the thistles shoot up 10 feet high, so dense and so protected
by spines that they are impenetrable. During the summer the dried stalks
are broken by the wind, and the lucern again spreads freshness over the
ground. The Pampas for 430 miles west of this region is a thicket of
long tufted luxuriant grass, intermixed with gaudy flowers, affording
inexhaustible pasture to thousands of horses and cattle; this is
followed by a tract of swamps and bogs, to which succeeds a region of
ravines and stones, and, lastly, a zone, reaching to the Andes, of
thorny bushes and dwarf trees in one dense thicket. The flat plains in
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