The waves raised by the wind are altogether independent of the tidal
waves; each maintains its undisturbed course; and as the inequalities of
the coasts reflect them in all directions, they modify those they
encounter and offer new resistance to the wind, so that there may be
three or four systems or series of co-existing waves, all going in
different directions, while the individual waves of each maintain their
parallelism.
The undulation called a ground-swell, occasioned by the continuance of a
heavy gale, is totally different from the tossing of the billows, which
is confined to the area vexed by the wind; whereas the ground-swell is
rapidly transmitted through the ocean to regions far beyond the direct
influence of the gale that raised it, and it continues to heave the
smooth and glassy surface of the deep long after the wind and the
billows are at rest. In the South Pacific, billows which must have
travelled 1000 miles against the trade-wind from the seat of the storm,
expend their fury on the lee side of the many coral islands which bedeck
that sunny sea.[113] A swell sometimes comes from a quarter in direct
opposition to the wind, and occasionally from various points of the
compass at the same time, producing a vast commotion even in a dead
calm, without ruffling the surface. They are the heralds that point out
to the mariner the distant region where the tempest has howled, and not
unfrequently they are the harbingers of its approach. At the margin of
the polar ice, in addition to other dangers, there is generally a swell
which would be very formidable to the mariner in thick weather, did not
the loud grinding noise of the ice warn him of his approach.
Heavy swells are propagated through the ocean till they gradually
subside from the friction of the water, or till the undulation is
checked by the resistance of land, when they roll in surf to the shore,
or dash in spray and foam over the rocks. The rollers at the Cape de
Verde Islands are seen at a great distance approaching like mountains.
When a gale is added to a ground-swell the commotion is great and the
force of the surge tremendous, tossing huge masses of rock and shaking
the cliffs to their foundations. During heavy gales on the coast of
Madras the surf breaks in nine fathoms water at the distance of four and
even four and a half miles from the shore. The violence of the tempest
is sometimes so intense as to quell the billows and scatter its surface
in a heavy shower called by sailors spoon-drift. On such occasions
saline particles have impregnated the air to the distance of 50 miles
inland.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account