On the northern side of these granite ranges, where the table-land is
8000 feet above the sea, and along the edge of the desert of El Aklaj in
Haudramaut, there is a tract of land so loose and so very fine, that a
plummet was sunk in it by Baron Wrede to the depth of 360 feet without
reaching the bottom. There is a tradition in the country that the Sabæan
army of King Suffi perished in attempting to cross this desert. Arabia
Felix, which merits its name, is the only part of that country with
permanent streams, though they are small. Here also the mountains and
fertile ground run far inland, producing grain, pasture, coffee,
odoriferous plants, and gums. High cliffs line the shores of the Indian
Ocean and the Strait of Bab-el-man-deb—“the Gate of Tears.” The fertile
country is continued a considerable way along the coast of the Red Sea,
but the character of barrenness is resumed by degrees, till at length
the hills and intervening terraces, on which Mecca and Medina, the holy
cities of the Mahomedans, stand, are sterile wastes wherever springs do
not water them. The blast of the desert, loaded with burning sand,
sweeps over these parched regions. Mountains skirt the table-land to the
north; and the peninsula, between the Gulfs of Akabah and Suez on the
Red Sea, the Eliath of Scripture, is filled by the mountain-group of
Sinai and Horeb. Jebel Houra, Mount Sinai, on which Moses received the
Ten Commandments, is 9000 feet high, surrounded by higher mountains,
which are covered with snow in winter. The group of Sinai abounds in
springs and verdure. At its northern extremity lies the desert of
El-Teh, 70 miles long and 30 broad, in which the Israelites wandered
forty years. It is covered with long ranges of high rocks, of most
repulsive aspect, rent into deep clefts only a few feet wide, hemmed in
by walls of rock sometimes 1000 feet high, like the deserted streets of
a Cyclopean town. The journey from Sinai to Akabah, by the Wadee-el-Ain
or Valley of the Spring, is perfectly magnificent, and the site of Petra
itself is a tremendous confusion of black and brown mountains. It is a
considerable basin closed in by rocks, with chasms and defiles in the
precipices. The main street is 2 miles long, and not more than from 10
to 30 feet wide, enclosed between perpendicular rocks from 100 to 700
feet high, which so nearly meet as to leave only a strip of sky. A
stream runs through the street which must once have been a considerable
torrent, and the precipitous rocks are excavated into thousands of
caverns once inhabited—into conduits, cisterns, flights of steps,
theatres, and temples, forming altogether one of the most wonderful
remains of antiquity. The whole of Arabia Petrea, Edom of the sacred
writers, presents a scene of appalling desolation, completely fulfilling
the denunciation of prophecy.[35]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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