The koroos are arid deserts in the dry season, but soon after the rains
they are covered with verdure and a splendid flora. The maritime plains
partake of the same temporary aridity, though a large portion is rich in
cereal productions, vineyards, fruits, and pasture.
The most inland of the parallel ranges, about the 20th meridian east, is
10,000 feet high, and, though it sinks to some groups of hills at its
eastern extremity, it rises again, about the 27th meridian, in a truly
alpine and continuous chain—the Quotlamba mountains, which follow the
northerly direction of Natal, and are continued in the Lupata range of
hills, 80 miles inland, through Zanguebar.
At Natal the coast is grassy, with clumps of trees, like an English
park. The Zambeze, and other streams from the table-land, refresh the
plains on the Mozambique Channel and Zanguebar, where, though some parts
are marshy and covered with mangroves, groves of palm-trees adorn the
plains, which yield prodigious quantities of grain, and noble forests
cover the mountains; but from 4° N. latitude to Cape Guardafuï is a
continued desert. There is also a barren tract at the southern end of
the Lupata chain, where gold is found in masses and grains on the
surface and in the watercourses, which tempted the Portuguese to make
settlements on these unwholesome coasts.
The island of Madagascar, with its magnificent range of mountains, full
of tremendous precipices, and covered with primeval forests, is parallel
to the African coast, and only separated from it by the Mozambique
Channel, 300 miles broad, so it may be presumed that it rose from the
deep at the same time as the Lupata chain.
The contrast between the eastern and western coasts of South Africa is
very great. The escarped bold mountains round the Cape of Good Hope, and
its rocky coast, which extends a short way along the Atlantic to the
north, are succeeded by ranges of sandstone of small elevation, which
separate the internal sandy desert from the equally parched sandy shore.
The terraced dip of the Atlantic coast for 900 miles, between the Orange
River and Cape Negro, has not a drop of fresh water.
At Cape Negro, ranges of mountains, separated by long level tracts,
begin, and make a semicircular bend into the interior, leaving plains
along the coast 140 miles broad. In Benguela these plains are healthy
and cultivated; farther north there are monotonous grassy savannahs, and
forests of gigantic trees. The ground, in many places saturated with
water, bears a tangled crop of mangroves and tall reeds, which even
cover the shoals along the coasts; but pestilential vapours hang over
them, never dissipated by a breeze.
The country of Calbongos is the highest land on the coast, where a
magnificent group of mountains, covered almost to their tops with large
timber, lie not far inland. The low plains of Biafra and Benin, west of
them, and especially the delta of the Niger, consist entirely of swamps
loaded with rank vegetation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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