Between the Pass of Chacabuco north of Santiago, the capital of Chile,
and the archipelago of Chiloe, a chain of hills, composed in general of
crystalline rocks, borders the coast; between which and the Andes exists
a longitudinal valley, well watered by the rivers descending from the
central chain, and which constitutes the most fertile portion, nay the
garden of the Chillian republic—the rich provinces of Santiago,
Colchagua, and Maule. This longitudinal depression may be considered as
a prolongation of the strait that separates Chiloe from the mainland.
Many peaks of the Andes enter within the limits of perpetual snow,
between the 40th and 31st parallels; and some of which are active
volcanos. In lat. 32° 39ʹ rises the giant of the American Andes, the
Nevado of Aconcagua, which towers over the Chillian village of the same
name, and is so clearly visible from Valparaiso. Although designated as
a volcano, a term generally applied in Chile to every elevated and snowy
peak, it offers no trace of modern igneous origin. It appears to be
composed of a species of porphyry generally found in the centre of the
Chillian chain. Its height, according to Captain Beechey’s very accurate
observations, exceeds 24,000 feet.[41]
About the latitude of Concepcion the dense forests of Araucarias and of
other semi-tropical plants cease with the humid equable climate; and as
no rain falls in central Chile for nine months in the year, the brown,
purple, and tile-red hills and mountains are only dotted here and there
with low trees and bushes; very soon, however, after the heavy showers
have moistened the cracked ground, it is covered with a beautiful but
transient flora. In some valleys it is more permanent and of a tropical
character, mixed with alpine plants.[42] In southern Chile rain falls
only once in two or three years, the consequence of which is sterility
on the western precipitous and unbroken descent of the Andes; but on the
east, two secondary branches leave the central Cordillera, which extend
300 or 400 miles into the plains, wooded to a great height. The Sierra
de Cordova, the most southern of these, begins between the 33d and 31st
parallels, and extends in the direction of the Pampas; more to the
north, the Sierra di Salta and Juguy stretches from the valley of
Catamarca and Tucuman towards the Rio Vermejo, one of the tributaries of
the Rio de la Plata.
The chain takes the name of the Peruvian Andes about the 24th degree of
south latitude, and is separated from the Pacific by a range of hills
composed of crystalline rocks, and parallel to the sea coast, and of an
intervening sandy desert, seldom above 60 miles broad, on which rain
scarcely ever falls, where bare rocks pierce through the moving sand.
The width of the coast is nearly the same to the Isthmus of Panamá, but
damp luxuriant forests full of orchideæ, begin about the latitude of
Payta, and continue northwards.
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