Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel; Novelists, English -- 19th century -- Biography
Among what may be called the Cubs or minor Lions of Rome, there was one
that amused me mightily. It is always to be found there; and its den is
on the great flight of steps that lead from the Piazza di Spágna, to the
church of Trínita del Monte. In plainer words, these steps are the great
place of resort for the artists’ ‘Models,’ and there they are constantly
waiting to be hired. The first time I went up there, I could not
conceive why the faces seemed familiar to me; why they appeared to have
beset me, for years, in every possible variety of action and costume; and
how it came to pass that they started up before me, in Rome, in the broad
day, like so many saddled and bridled nightmares. I soon found that we
had made acquaintance, and improved it, for several years, on the walls
of various Exhibition Galleries. There is one old gentleman, with long
white hair and an immense beard, who, to my knowledge, has gone half
through the catalogue of the Royal Academy. This is the venerable, or
patriarchal model. He carries a long staff; and every knot and twist in
that staff I have seen, faithfully delineated, innumerable times. There
is another man in a blue cloak, who always pretends to be asleep in the
sun (when there is any), and who, I need not say, is always very wide
awake, and very attentive to the disposition of his legs. This is the
_dolce far’ niente_ model. There is another man in a brown cloak, who
leans against a wall, with his arms folded in his mantle, and looks out
of the corners of his eyes: which are just visible beneath his broad
slouched hat. This is the assassin model. There is another man, who
constantly looks over his own shoulder, and is always going away, but
never does. This is the haughty, or scornful model. As to Domestic
Happiness, and Holy Families, they should come very cheap, for there are
lumps of them, all up the steps; and the cream of the thing is, that they
are all the falsest vagabonds in the world, especially made up for the
purpose, and having no counterparts in Rome or any other part of the
habitable globe.
My recent mention of the Carnival, reminds me of its being said to be a
mock mourning (in the ceremony with which it closes), for the gaieties
and merry-makings before Lent; and this again reminds me of the real
funerals and mourning processions of Rome, which, like those in most
other parts of Italy, are rendered chiefly remarkable to a Foreigner, by
the indifference with which the mere clay is universally regarded, after
life has left it. And this is not from the survivors having had time to
dissociate the memory of the dead from their well-remembered appearance
and form on earth; for the interment follows too speedily after death,
for that: almost always taking place within four-and-twenty hours, and,
sometimes, within twelve.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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