Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel; Novelists, English -- 19th century -- Biography
There is an upper chamber in the Mamertine prisons, over what is said to
have been—and very possibly may have been—the dungeon of St. Peter. This
chamber is now fitted up as an oratory, dedicated to that saint; and it
lives, as a distinct and separate place, in my recollection, too. It is
very small and low-roofed; and the dread and gloom of the ponderous,
obdurate old prison are on it, as if they had come up in a dark mist
through the floor. Hanging on the walls, among the clustered votive
offerings, are objects, at once strangely in keeping, and strangely at
variance, with the place—rusty daggers, knives, pistols, clubs, divers
instruments of violence and murder, brought here, fresh from use, and
hung up to propitiate offended Heaven: as if the blood upon them would
drain off in consecrated air, and have no voice to cry with. It is all
so silent and so close, and tomb-like; and the dungeons below are so
black and stealthy, and stagnant, and naked; that this little dark spot
becomes a dream within a dream: and in the vision of great churches which
come rolling past me like a sea, it is a small wave by itself, that melts
into no other wave, and does not flow on with the rest.
It is an awful thing to think of the enormous caverns that are entered
from some Roman churches, and undermine the city. Many churches have
crypts and subterranean chapels of great size, which, in the ancient
time, were baths, and secret chambers of temples, and what not: but I do
not speak of them. Beneath the church of St. Giovanni and St. Paolo,
there are the jaws of a terrific range of caverns, hewn out of the rock,
and said to have another outlet underneath the Coliseum—tremendous
darknesses of vast extent, half-buried in the earth and unexplorable,
where the dull torches, flashed by the attendants, glimmer down long
ranges of distant vaults branching to the right and left, like streets in
a city of the dead; and show the cold damp stealing down the walls,
drip-drop, drip-drop, to join the pools of water that lie here and there,
and never saw, or never will see, one ray of the sun. Some accounts make
these the prisons of the wild beasts destined for the amphitheatre; some
the prisons of the condemned gladiators; some, both. But the legend most
appalling to the fancy is, that in the upper range (for there are two
stories of these caves) the Early Christians destined to be eaten at the
Coliseum Shows, heard the wild beasts, hungry for them, roaring down
below; until, upon the night and solitude of their captivity, there burst
the sudden noon and life of the vast theatre crowded to the parapet, and
of these, their dreaded neighbours, bounding in!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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