Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel; Novelists, English -- 19th century -- Biography
At the Sistine chapel, on the Wednesday, we saw very little, for by the
time we reached it (though we were early) the besieging crowd had filled
it to the door, and overflowed into the adjoining hall, where they were
struggling, and squeezing, and mutually expostulating, and making great
rushes every time a lady was brought out faint, as if at least fifty
people could be accommodated in her vacant standing-room. Hanging in the
doorway of the chapel, was a heavy curtain, and this curtain, some twenty
people nearest to it, in their anxiety to hear the chaunting of the
Miserere, were continually plucking at, in opposition to each other, that
it might not fall down and stifle the sound of the voices. The
consequence was, that it occasioned the most extraordinary confusion, and
seemed to wind itself about the unwary, like a Serpent. Now, a lady was
wrapped up in it, and couldn’t be unwound. Now, the voice of a stifling
gentleman was heard inside it, beseeching to be let out. Now, two
muffled arms, no man could say of which sex, struggled in it as in a
sack. Now, it was carried by a rush, bodily overhead into the chapel,
like an awning. Now, it came out the other way, and blinded one of the
Pope’s Swiss Guard, who had arrived, that moment, to set things to
rights.
Being seated at a little distance, among two or three of the Pope’s
gentlemen, who were very weary and counting the minutes—as perhaps his
Holiness was too—we had better opportunities of observing this eccentric
entertainment, than of hearing the Miserere. Sometimes, there was a
swell of mournful voices that sounded very pathetic and sad, and died
away, into a low strain again; but that was all we heard.
At another time, there was the Exhibition of Relics in St. Peter’s, which
took place at between six and seven o’clock in the evening, and was
striking from the cathedral being dark and gloomy, and having a great
many people in it. The place into which the relics were brought, one by
one, by a party of three priests, was a high balcony near the chief
altar. This was the only lighted part of the church. There are always a
hundred and twelve lamps burning near the altar, and there were two tall
tapers, besides, near the black statue of St. Peter; but these were
nothing in such an immense edifice. The gloom, and the general upturning
of faces to the balcony, and the prostration of true believers on the
pavement, as shining objects, like pictures or looking-glasses, were
brought out and shown, had something effective in it, despite the very
preposterous manner in which they were held up for the general
edification, and the great elevation at which they were displayed; which
one would think rather calculated to diminish the comfort derivable from
a full conviction of their being genuine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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