In no part of London is there felt such a mixture of sensations as when
we enter Lincoln’s Inn Fields. There is a tone of old-fashioned repose
mixed with quaintness, and a “large air of neglect” too. There are
ancient houses enough and decayed chambers. The Square itself has a
certain pleasant old fashion, and is not trimmed up as are the modern
ones. It is rather an old garden run to seed. There is a tradition that
it is the exact area of the base of one of the Pyramids; but this has
been found by measurement not to be exact. I never pass the side of the
Fields that faces the Inn without examining with a deep interest the
range of mansions that line it, once inhabited by personages of state
and quality, now by clerks. These are of an architectural and stately
pattern, and though altered, cut up, subdivided, and otherwise
disfigured, can, by a little exercise of the imagination, be readily
restored to their former state.
The large bare and gaunt structure in Sardinia Street is the old Embassy
Chapel, which dates from the seventeenth century, and the sanctuary
portion of which is held to be the work of Inigo Jones. Its large
vaulted ceiling is certainly in his manner, and suggests the arcades at
Covent Garden. The faded old gilding and foreign decorations of the
interior, the painted pillars and capitals, and the curious tiers of
galleries, like the stern of a Spanish argosy, are interesting; and we
call up the turbulent nights of the Gordon Riots, when it was sacked and
set on fire. In one of the houses opposite Franklin lodged, with a pious
Catholic widow, when he was pursuing his trade as a humble printer. The
side of the Fields adjoining the chapel has a particular interest from
the stately houses before alluded to. We may note the large, well-carved
roses and fleur-de-lys which ornament them, and Inigo’s favourite type
of stone pilasters and capitals on a brick ground. The finest and most
picturesque old house to be seen in London, close by, in Great Queen
Street, is also his work, and almost as he left it. The roof and the
enriched capitals and bold cornices are very striking; but the lower
portion has long been a shop, which makes the whole look insecure. At
the corner of this street, and looking into the Fields, is the great
mansion of the notorious and intriguing old Duke of Newcastle, with its
courtyard in front and sweeping flight of steps--a very striking pile,
with its fine stairs and stately and spacious apartments, now devoted to
offices. A few doors lower down we are arrested by a large open paved
courtyard, with two enormous piers capped by gigantic vases of the most
massive and florid kind. Here there now appear to be two houses; but a
second glance shows us that this is another imposing mansion, with a
handsomely designed front, which the moderns have cut up into two: it
was, in fact, the residence of the Lindseys, Earls and Dukes of
Ancaster. Another mansion of theirs, even larger, is still to be seen on
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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