In any case, let us hope that the spoiler will
not be allowed to intrude. There are but few of this pattern in or near
London, and none so interesting as this “Wandsworth Manor-house.”
Another house is also interesting, not merely from its merits as a
picturesque structure, but also from its associations. Half way up
Highgate Hill, which leads us to a cluster of old houses and on to
Hampstead, where there are many more, we come to a solid,
impregnable-looking building, rising in its garden, and standing retired
behind a low wall and surrounded by old trees. This is Cromwell’s House,
which, the tradition runs, was inhabited by him, or by one of his
generals--Ireton, most probably. This fine old building impresses us by
its massive and picturesque air, its high roof and “shaggy” eaves, its
heavy solid cupola, and its rich and beautiful carvings. The very wooden
gates of the period have been retained, with their delicate carvings in
low relief. The tone and colouring of the brickwork is of a mellow
genial crimson, almost a raspberry tint, the mouldings are all delicate,
yet bold and firm, a model for modern artists in brick; they are as
sharp
[Illustration: CROMWELL’S HOUSE, HIGHGATE.]
as on the day they were wrought and will stand time and weather for a
century to come. The doorway is heavy and massive. The whole aspect of
this fine old mansion suggests that we are a hundred miles away from
London. When we enter, we find nothing but deep-brown oak, heavily
corniced doors, a hall all set off with the same material, sombre and
mysterious. Beyond is the stair, which has a celebrity of its own: it is
laid out in the always effective style of short flights of half a dozen
steps, with then a turn at right angles, and a landing, as though our
fathers, like Hamlet, were “short and scant of breath,” and liked to
ascend leisurely. There are fine massive balustrades and--here is the
curiosity of the thing--at intervals rise carved oak statuettes of the
Parliamentary soldiers with singular and pleasing effect. It is
astonishing that these _bizarre_ ornaments have escaped destruction
hitherto, and that accident or design has not damaged or destroyed them.
The old house is now a children’s hospital, and nurses and matrons pass
up and down the Parliamentary staircase. But this occupancy suggests
misgivings, as a hospital, once it begins to flourish, has a fashion of
expanding or levelling regardless of antiquarian associations. The
choice piece of ground, the gardens behind, and the fine healthy,
stimulating air are tempting enough; and a few years may see the
Cromwellian house levelled, and an imposing modern, but hideous pile
reared in its place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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