On the other side of Fleet Street we can see the “Mitre Tavern,” closing
up the end of a court--but not the old original “Mitre,” where Johnson
sat with Boswell. It was pulled down within living memory, and with it
the corner in which the sage used to sit, and which was religiously
marked by his bust. Yet, even as it stands in its restoration, there is
something quaint in the feeling, as you enter a low, covered passage
from Fleet Street, and see its cheerful open door at the end. There are
other taverns with such approaches in the street. The “Old Bell” is
curiously retired. The passage to the “Mitre” is as it was in Johnson’s
day, and his eyes must have been often raised to the old beams that
support its roof. Even in its modern shape it retains much that is
old-fashioned and _rococo_. It is like a country tavern in London, with
its “ordinary” at noon--and a good one too--and its retirement; so close
and yet so far from the hum and clatter of Fleet Street.
From the old tavern we pass into the open _place_ where St. Clement
Danes stands--one of the most Dutch-like spots in London, to which idea
the quaint and rather elegant tower lends itself. To hear its chimes,
not at midnight, but on some December evening, when the steeple is
projected on a cold blue background, while you can see the shadows of
the ringers in the bell-tower, offers a picturesque effect. The bells
fling out their janglings more wildly than any peal in London: they are
nearer the ground, and the hurly-burly is melodious enough. Those tones
the Doctor often heard in Gough Square and Bolt Court, and within he had
his favourite seat, to this day reverently marked by a plate and
inscription. Yet St. Clement’s is in a precarious way, and before many
years its fate will be decided.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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