The old churches in the desolate portions of London, by Shoreditch and
Whitechapel, Wapping and Southwark, though many were built by Wren, seem
blighted by the squalid districts in which they stand. We may
commiserate the fate of the vicars in charge, who pursue their calling
under cheerless conditions. The old forlorn and disused Rolls Chapel,
which always suggests some maltreated Dutch church, contains an artistic
gem which is worthy of a special visit. “It is little known,” says the
judicious Mr. Hare, “that within its walls is one of the noblest pieces
of sculpture that England possesses--a tomb which may be compared for
beauty with the famous monuments of Albergati at Bologna, and of Guigni
at the Badia at Florence.” This praise is not a whit too extravagant;
for elegance and beauty of design nothing can approach it. It is in
memory of Dr. John Young, Master of the Rolls in the time of Henry VIII.
A plain arch incloses a casket-shaped sarcophagus on which the figure
reposes. On the surface within the arch is a representation of Our
Saviour, flanked by cherubs wrought in delicate relief, after the
fashion of Donatello, with exquisite pictorical effect. The graceful
original design of the sarcophagus suggests one of those Florentine
chests intended to hold _trousseaux_, and along the bottom runs an airy
scroll as if carelessly cast down, and without the usual formality of
such things. Much of the effect is due to the beautiful sense or
instinct of proportion, and to the simple lines of the inclosing arch,
which is not elaborated in any way: it is supported by short pillars and
their capitals according to the usual form. This severity and reserve
produce the happiest result in giving effect; while the beauty and
mellowed richness of the tones of colouring and the air of gentle
repose are extraordinary. The whole is the work of Torrigiano, Henry
VII.th’s Italian artist, whose _chef-d’œuvre_ is in Westminster Abbey.
One of the most picturesque and interesting streets in London is
Bishopgate Street, which even now presents a very fair idea of how an
old London street looked a couple of centuries ago. Many of its old
wooden houses remain. Here are strange old churches that have never been
altered or restored; curious, retired little courts and squares, old
inns, an old hall or palace, like Crosby Hall, with a fine carved house,
Sir Paul Pindar’s; while the traffic of the street and the general air
seem to take insensibly the tone and complexion of an old-fashioned,
obsolete kind. The course of the thoroughfare winds and bends in an
original way, and it seems now to be, what it used to be, a busy
highway, one of the great roads that led away out of London to the
country. Still do the waggons and carriers depart in numbers, and the
old inn yards whence the coaches used to set off, are used for kindred
purposes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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