It were vain, of course, to praise the matchless Bow Steeple, the best
view of which is gained from the Royal Exchange. Its originality,
solidity, and airiness are extraordinary. If a fault might be hinted at,
“the centre core behind the columns, one could have wished,” says Mr.
Taylor, “had been slightly thicker.” The tone and colour--everything is
charming. Within, however, it hardly seems to correspond. Indeed, many
of Wren’s interiors are disappointing--giving the air of some large,
gloomy hall or chamber, rather than that of a church, set off with
ponderous carvings. He had another favourite system, exhibited in St.
Stephen’s, Walbrook, and St. James’s, Piccadilly, and also imitated by
his pupils, of rows of slight pillars, dividing the interior into
aisles, and which support vaulted roofs. These are also made to do duty
in supporting the galleries.
Architects have fallen into raptures over one of Wren’s City churches,
this St. Stephen’s, Walbrook, which, externally, seems mean and
neglected. Says one: “If the exterior and belfry of this church have
uncommon grace and decorum for that age, it is the interior that
constitutes its fame. Though a simple cell inclosed by four walls, the
tameness of that form wholly disappears behind the unique and varied
arrangement of its sixteen columns. They reproduce and unite almost
every beauty of plan to be found in all the cathedrals of Europe. Now
they form the Latin cross, with its nave, transept, and chancel; anon
they divide the whole space into five aisles, regularly diminishing from
the centre to the sides; again we perceive, in the midst, a square
apartment with recesses on all its sides--a square, nay, an octagon--no,
a circle. It changes at every glance, as we view the entablature, or the
arches above it, or the all-uniting dome. With the same harmonious
variety we have every form of ceiling brought together at once--flat,
camerated, groined, pendentive, domical--yet no confusion. The fitness
to its destination is perfect; every eye can see the minister, and every
ear is within hearing distance of him in every part of the service. It
is the most beautiful of preaching-rooms; and though only a sketch, and
executed only in counterfeit building, would, if carried out in Wren’s
spirit instead of his employers’, form the most perfect of Protestant
temples.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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