The West-end Londoner who has never explored the quarter that leads to
the northern heights will be agreeably surprised by the antique,
original flavour of “Merrie Islington.” At night or evening the bustle,
glare of lights, jingling of bells, and converging of tramcars, the
enormous crowds waiting or passing, the fine clear air, the steep hilly
streets, the glimpse of the open country, and the general animation make
up quite a foreign scene. There is even a half-rural air, with the
stunted or “pollarded” trees, the terraces and mouldering gardens in
front, and the little superannuated houses; carriers’ carts are waiting
loaded and ready to set off for villages and towns a few miles away.
Here converge half a dozen streets, two or three steep hills, and
innumerable lines of tramways and omnibuses. Every instant the cars and
’busses are arriving and departing, enormous crowds are waiting to get
in and go their way, and the jingling of the bells, the metallic sound
of the wheels, the chatter of voices, supply a sort of music of an
original kind. The most picturesque effect arises from the trains of
cars perpetually coming up the hills from the town below, and arriving
as it were, unexpectedly--arriving from round the corners, and crossing
each other in bewildering confusion. When all is lighted up the
spectacle for bustle and animation and crowd quite suggests a busy
foreign city, from the glare of innumerable lights, to which Islington
seems highly partial. The Islingtonians, it may be noted, are
healthy-looking folk, for the place is high and the air inspiring, as
any jaded Londoner journeying from the west will find. Close beside us
are two well-known places of amusement, the “Grand Theatre,” some
fifteen years an obscure music hall, suddenly becoming celebrated, owing
to _Geneviève de Brabant_ and Miss Emily Soldene; to say nothing of the
two “_John-Darms_,” as the French comic soldiers were invariably known
at Islington, one of them performed in broken English by a droll
Frenchman. Before us is the Agricultural Hall, where the Mohawk
Minstrels, highly appreciated, perform.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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