How imposing is the long and stately façade that looks across the
gardens to Bushey! So solid and yet so rich in its decoration and stone
dressings. This is one of Wren’s most successful works; so varied and
original in its treatment. With all our fantastical modern freaks, no
one seems to have caught or adapted this style, the florid circular
windows particularly. How curious is it to look at the old tennis court,
where the King’s nobles and gentlemen played the game--a solemn,
mournful place of recreation now. The courtyard within and fine
colonnade--how fine and dignified! The florid embroidery in stone-work
seems exactly to suit the cheerful, sunshiny brick. A walk in these wide
_loggias_ on a wet day would be a welcome diversion. Within are the
superb suites of rooms allotted to favoured _protégées_ by the grace of
the Crown: but few could form an idea of the great accommodation. On one
“flat” alone, enjoyed by a single family, there are seventeen or
eighteen rooms. The grand staircases at the side that lead up to these
suites, and ascend to the roof almost, are pointed out as instances of
Wren’s ingenuity. He wished to make the ascent as easy as possible. They
were placed therefore in long low slopes, each containing a vast number
of steps.
From this court we pass into the portion built by Wolsey, which is the
most charming and interesting of the whole. Here, too, we must admire
the grace of the architecture, the beautiful proportions of the
gate-towers, and the tone of the old brick, softened into a ripe creamy
pink. Very little has been altered or renewed, everything is as Henry
and Wolsey saw it--the extraordinary florid old clock, and the effective
and vigorous terra-cotta heads of Roman Emperors fitted into the
brickwork with forcible effect. They were a present from the Pope of the
time.
The great banqueting hall is an imposing work, with its noble open roof
and vast proportions. But these things are really not to be appreciated
on a visit--when we stare and have to pass to some other part of the
“show,” where we stare again. In visiting old towns and old cathedrals
we should reside, and let the spirit of the place grow, or steal
gradually upon us. When a feeling of companionship arises we get
familiar, and find ourselves looking on it again and again. But with
short and hurried glances little is really gathered--we have seen, but
not known.
It will be noted that what we have been considering is not the hackneyed
or popular view, which consists in following the lazy herd as it
promenades wearily from room to room--the king and queen’s chambers--or
the waste of innumerable pictures, including the Hampton Court beauties
and the Field of the Cloth of Gold and other notable “curios.” There is
of course entertainment in this, but the real attraction is in the place
itself, where we might wander for days.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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