The wanderer or walker in London will find a district close by the
Palace very welcome and pleasing--the well-known Campden Hill. For a
spot so embedded in town it has a curious _rural_ note of its own, an
old-fashioned air, as though it declined altogether to go with the
times. The air, too, is tempered and softened; there are numbers of
pretty places, with their spreading grounds, old trees, and older
villas. Those persons who have been fortunate enough to secure ground
here in good time are to be envied. The curious part is that it is
bounded all round by the most uninviting prosaic districts--on one side
by the frowsy Notting Hill Gate, on the other by the common high road to
Hammersmith, all crowded with omnibuses and carts. But ascend the gentle
hill, from whatever direction, and you find yourself puzzled by the
antique simplicity and suburban air of the place. Of course there are
eyesores and blemishes--the dreadful waterworks in the very centre, to
say nothing of numerous modern “Follies,” fantastic freaks in the way of
enormously tall houses, and other monstrosities. Coming up the broad
cross road which joins Notting Hill and Kensington, we ascend a sort of
sheltered lane, with all sorts of ancient tenements, somewhat “shaky,”
each with its garden and enclosing wall, such as one might encounter at
Kew or Chiswick. Many of these have been judiciously adapted and added
to by the thriving artist or _littérateur_. This portion may be called
the _town_ side of Campden Hill; and here are also the modern builders’
terraces.
[Illustration: ALMA TADEMA’S FORMER STUDIO.]
Here stands the modern Campden House; but a far more interesting
structure is the old, “Little Campden House,” with its heavy roof and
eaves, and old-fashioned air, but with an abandoned look, presenting no
tangible idea to the present generation, yet in its day it and its
enterprising owner furnished much talk and speculation in artistic
circles. Mr. Wooler was passionately fond of theatricals, and the
private theatre in his house became celebrated, the owner himself
gravitating towards the genuine stage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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