There are other houses hard by which illustrate curious mutations of
life. Here, for instance, is a handsome mansion, built by Mr. Beresford
Hope for his private residence, and from the designs of a French
architect, one of the rare specimens in town. In time it passed from his
hands, and is now the Junior Athenæum Club. Further on, an imposing
stone mansion, crescent-shaped in its façade, and of classical
character, was, I believe, built by the late “Marquis of Steyne”--or
Hertford, rather--at, of course, great cost, and equally, of course,
never inhabited by him. For thirty or forty years, I believe, it
remained in this ghostly condition, until his strange, eccentric course
came to a close, and more rational successors arrived. Passing on, we
reach Cambridge House, once the mansion of the ever-popular Palmerston.
There is something dignified, yet unpretending, in this house, not to
say classical; it seems suited to a prime minister. Here were those
parties and receptions, where the adroit hostess was supposed to have
the art of cementing political ties. It is now a club, and enormous
additions have been made on the ground behind. Few know that it was in
this row that the Hamiltons and Lord Nelson lodged when they came to
London, and where the hero’s weakness was exhibited in most open and
unbecoming manner, which has been good-naturedly glossed over by his
countrymen.
The White Horse Cellar, a most interesting old place for its traditions,
lingered on, bow windows and all, till a few years back. The revival of
the old coaching days saved it. But now it has been fashioned into a new
modern hotel. There is hardly a more exhilarating and original spectacle
to be seen than occurs here in the full “swing” of the season, at the
close of a summer’s day, between six and seven o’clock. At this time
gather elegants in glossy hats and frock-coats with waists, ebony sticks
with silver knobs, like miniature “black rods;” together with wiry
elderly gentlemen, like the curious water-colour portraits that used to
be seen in Sams’ old shop at the foot of St. James’s Street. A few years
ago “Sams” was swept away, with all his curious water-colour noblemen in
tight trousers and strange hats, and a vast Dutch house has taken its
place. The coach seers are all well shaven, and wear check cravats. Some
stand on the steps, others on the _pavé_. Less aristocratic beings
cluster there too, straws in the mouth, or emerge from the cellar below.
Now the clock hand is within a quarter of an inch of the hour, and hark!
the faint winding of a horn from the Knightsbridge direction, then
another nearer, from the Strand side. The coaches are coming up true to
their time--to a minute. There they are--the bright yellow, the dark,
the grey panelled: the policeman puts back the traffic; up they roll,
well laden; ladies bright and cheerful; the scarlet guard; the coachman
confident and secure, and bringing up his team with exquisite nicety, as
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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