This rather grimed waste of brick wall on the south side of King Street
is “Willis’s Rooms,” familiar enough; but it is not so well known that
here used to be held the old “Almack’s” balls. They were instituted a
full century ago as gambling and dancing rooms. There is a pleasant
old-fashioned flavour in the term “The Rooms,” and there are “the Rooms”
still at Bath, and at York. These are of a pleasing rococo pattern, rich
and florid, and the design is of the good old spacious school, now
extinct. “Willis’s Rooms” is the sole survival of such things in London.
Some years ago we had the Hanover Square Rooms, of the same kind, long
since converted into a club. The rooms in King Street are enriched with
florid old stucco, but it has been coloured, to suit the tastes of the
day, with execrable feeling. Almack was originally one MacCall, a Scot,
who came to “Town,” and thinking his name somewhat too provincial,
reversed the syllables. Close by is the St. James’s Theatre, built by
Braham, and where, till the hour of her death, his daughter, Lady
Waldegrave, had her box. This pretty house has since been enlarged after
the modern fashion, and a balcony added; and the observer may note that
the ceiling and the portion of the auditorium nearest the stage, with
the panelling of the boxes, belongs to the old theatre.
Hard by is the picturesquely-placed old Palace of St. James’s, which,
however, has been sorely maimed by later improvements; witness the
“skimpy” colonnade in its court. The really effective bit is the
old-fashioned gateway, with its towers of fine, rubicund brick, hard as
stone, as ripe in colour and crusted as old port. It is a welcome,
familiar object, well proportioned, with a Dutch quaintness and effect
in its belfry. How pleasant and satisfactory it is may be conceived by
simply imagining it away from the bottom of St. James’s Street. Some
fifty years ago it was suggested to George IV., by his Minister, that
the whole Palace should be sold, and pulled down, to supply resources
for building ugly Buckingham Palace! Mr. Whistler has noted the gaiety
of the scene, and has done an etching of the lively, cheerful view.
Every passer-by avails himself of the services of the pleasant, cheerful
clock, and its agreeable unpretending chimes. Our old friend the tower
is all for practical use, his cupola sheltering the bells, his gate for
passage, his dial for telling time. And what a right well-proportioned,
conspicuous dial it is! It is seen at once that the building was
intended for it, and it for the building, whereas in numberless
so-called clock towers the clock face seems to have been merely “stuck
on” as an afterthought, or a hole made in which a dial was inserted.
There is art in so simple a thing as this.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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