Pigments, Paint and Painting: A practical book for practical menTerry, George
Science
Pigments, Paint and Painting: A practical book for practical men
Terry, George
Paint; Painting, Industrial; Pigments
_Cause of Cracking._--The most common cause of cracking is poor japan,
which is the worst enemy that the car-painter has to contend with. The
greater part of the japan is too elastic, and will dry with a tack,
and the japan gold size has generally the same fault, although the
English gold size is generally of good quality; but its high price
is an objection to its use. A little more care in the manufacture
of japans would give a better dryer, and few would object to the
additional cost. Japan frequently curdles in the paint; it will not mix
with it, but gathers in small gummy particles on the top. Work painted
with such material cannot do otherwise than crack and scale, and the
remedy lies only in getting a good pure article of turpentine japan.
In regard to using ground lead, car-painters differ, as some prefer
to grind their own in the shop. I use the manufactured lead, and my
reasons for doing so are that it is generally finer than any shop can
grind it with present facilities, and it has age after grinding, which
improves its quality. You can also get a purer lead and one with more
body than you can by grinding in the shop, which is a fact that I think
most painters must admit. I have tested it very fully, and am convinced
on this point.
_Mixing the Paints._--Permit me to make a few suggestions here in
regard to the mixing of paint, which may not fully agree with others’
views. There is just as much paint that cracks by putting it on too
flat as by using too much oil. Some painters mix their finishing colour
so that it is impossible to get over a panel of ordinary size before
it is set under the brush, and consequently the colour will rough up.
Colour should be mixed up so that it will not flat down for some time
after leaving it, and then you have got some substance that will not
absorb the varnish as fast as it is applied to the surface. This quick
drying of colour is not always caused by want of oil in it, but because
there is too much japan, and a less quantity of the latter will do
better work, and make a smoother finish. Give your colour 48 hours to
dry between coats; always give that time, unless it is a hurried job,
and experience has fully demonstrated that it is poor economy to hurry
work out of the shop before it is properly finished.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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