Pilgrimage from the Alps to the Tiber : $b or, The influence of Romanism on trade, justice, and knowledgeWylie, J. A. (James Aitken)
History
Pilgrimage from the Alps to the Tiber : $b or, The influence of Romanism on trade, justice, and knowledge
Wylie, J. A. (James Aitken)
Catholic Church -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
without temples, and temples without porticos, their noble vaultings
yawning like caverns in the open day,--was seen bounding its farther
edge. Its floor was a rectangular expanse of shapeless swellings and
yawning pits. Here reposed a herd of buffaloes; there a little drove of
swine; yonder stood a row of carts; and in the midst of these noways
picturesque objects rose the gray arch of Titus. At its base sat a
beggar; while an artist, at a little distance, was sketching it with the
calotype. A peasant was traversing the Via Sacra, bearing to his home a
supply of city-baked bread. A dozen or two of old men with spades and
barrows were clearing away the earth from the ruins of the Temple of
Venus and Rome. In the south-eastern angle of the plain rose the titanic
bulk of the Coliseum, fearfully gashed and torn, yet sublime in its
decay. Over the furrowed and ragged summits of the Caelian and Esquiline
mounts were seen the early snows, glittering on the peaks of the
Volscian and Sabine range. Such was the scene which presented itself to
me from the top of the Palatine. How different, I need not say, from
that which must have often met the eye of Caesar from the same point,
prompting the proud boast,--"Is not this great" Rome, "that I have built
for the house of the kingdom, by the might of my power, and for the
honour of my majesty?" "How art thou fallen from heaven, O Lucifer, son
of the morning! How art thou cut down to the ground, that didst weaken
the nations!... Is this the man that did make the earth to
tremble,--that did shake kingdoms,--that made the world as a wilderness,
and destroyed the cities thereof?"
A little eastward of the Palatine, and seen over its shoulder, as
surveyed from the tower of the Capitol, is the CAELIAN Mount. Its summit
is marked by the ruins of an ancient edifice,--the Curia Hostilia,--and
the statued front of a modern temple,--the church of S. John Lateran,
which is even more renowned in the pontifical annals than the other is
in classic story. Moving your eye across the valley of the Forum, it
falls upon the flat surface of the ESQUILINE. It is marked, like the
former, by an ancient ruin and a modern edifice. Amid its vineyards and
rural lanes rise the massive remains of the baths of Titus, and the
gorgeous structure of Maria Maggiore. The VIMINALE comes next; but
forming, as it did, a plain betwixt the Esquiline and the Quirinal, it
is difficult to trace its limits. It is distinguishable mainly by the
baths of Dioclesian, now a French barrack, and the church of San
Lorenzo, which occupies its highest point. The QUIRINAL is the last of
the Seven Hills. It is covered with streets, and crowned with the summer
palace and gardens of the Pope.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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