Pilgrimages to the Spas in Pursuit of Health and Recreation: With an inquiry into the comparative merits of different mineral waters: the maladies to which they are applicable, and those in which they are injuriousJohnson, James
Science
Pilgrimages to the Spas in Pursuit of Health and Recreation: With an inquiry into the comparative merits of different mineral waters: the maladies to which they are applicable, and those in which they are injurious
Johnson, James
Balneology; Health resorts; Mineral waters
A steamer starts at five o’clock every morning from Magdeburg to Hamburg,
and when the Elbe is not very low, the passage may be performed in one
day. But fortunately, or unfortunately, we had not had a wet day, or
hardly a cloud in the sky, from the day we left London, till our return
to that metropolis, and therefore the river was so shallow, that we were
forty-eight hours on the voyage. There never was a vessel that had a
greater partiality for the ground than ours—and when once her keel and
the sand came in contact, it was as difficult to separate them as to
disengage two furious mastiffs joined in mortal combat. Our captain, too,
had a singular method of loosening his vessel from her hold on the shoal.
Instead of carrying out an anchor astern, and dragging her off in that
direction, as we drag dogs from one another by their tails, he invariably
took the anchor out a-head, and after prizing the vessel as far forward
on the bank as possible, he then tried the retrogressive plan, and, of
course, succeeded, though sometimes after two or three hours’ delay. At
length we came to a dead stop—for there was not three feet water in any
part of the river; so we were obliged to shift into another steamer,
“_below bar_” and jogged along, as above the barrier, but more of our
time passed aground than afloat. However, we had a very pleasant society
on board—people from various countries—very good table-d’hôte—but, as
the weather was fine, and the berths close and crowded, I picked out the
softest plank I could find on deck, and slept in the open air, during our
descent of the Elbe. There is little or no improvement of the scenery
between Dresden and the mouth of the river. The Elbe pays a heavy fine
in the shape of monotony for its short but romantic route through Saxon
Switzerland!
HAMBURG.
From the muddy wharves and quays, we scramble up through steep streets,
every second house having an inscription, or rather an advertisement in
English on its walls or over the door Of the Babel tongues that salute
the ear in every part of this city, the English seems to hold the next
rank to German and Dutch. Whether it was from the lowness of the Elbe,
and the long drought, I know not, but the canals that penetrate far
up several of the streets, appeared abominably filthy and malodorous.
Three-fourths indeed of their bottoms were bare of water, and only
exhibited reeking mud, well impregnated with all kinds of animal and
vegetable debris, and admirably calculated to spread pestilential
disorders through the city.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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