I may just mention that the main and simplest effect of including
the inertia or momentum of the water is to dislocate the obvious
and simple connexion between high water and high moon; inertia
always tends to make an effect differ in phase by a quarter period
from the cause producing it, as may be illustrated by a swinging
pendulum. Hence high water is not to be expected when the
tide-raising force is a maximum, but six hours later; so that,
considering inertia and neglecting friction, there would be low
water under the moon. Including friction, something nearer the
equilibrium state of things occurs. With _sufficient_ friction the
motion becomes dead-beat again, _i.e._ follows closely the force
that causes it.
Returning to the elementary discussion, we see that the rotation of the
earth with respect to the humps will not be performed in exactly
twenty-four hours, because the humps are travelling slowly after the
moon, and will complete a revolution in a month in the same direction as
the earth is rotating. Hence a place on the earth has to catch them up,
and so each high tide arrives later and later each day--roughly
speaking, an hour later for each day tide; not by any means a constant
interval, because of superposed disturbances not here mentioned, but on
the average about fifty minutes.
We see, then, that as a result of all this we get a pair of humps
travelling all over the surface of the earth, about once a day. If the
earth were all ocean (and in the southern hemisphere it is nearly all
ocean), then they would go travelling across the earth, tidal waves
three feet high, and constituting the mid-ocean tides. But in the
northern hemisphere they can only thus journey a little way without
striking land. As the moon rises at a place on the east shores of the
Atlantic, for instance, the waters begin to flow in towards this place,
or the tide begins to rise. This goes on till the moon is overhead and
for some time afterwards, when the tide is at its highest. The hump then
follows the moon in its apparent journey across to America, and there
precipitates itself upon the coast, rushing up all the channels, and
constituting the land tide. At the same time, the water is dragged away
from the east shores, and so _our_ tide is at its lowest. The same thing
repeats itself in a little more than twelve hours again, when the other
hump passes over the Atlantic, as the moon journeys beneath the earth,
and so on every day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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