There were other warnings. On April 30, light ashes had begun to fall.
On May 1 an excursion was announced for the summit of Mont Pelee for
those who wished to see a volcano in action, but that morning a deeper
coat of ashes blanched the streets. The Jardin des Plantes--one of the
richest tropical gardens of the West Indies--lay buried beneath a cap of
gray and white. The heights above the city seemed snow-clad. The country
roads were blocked and obliterated, and horses would neither work nor
travel. Birds fell in their noiseless flight, smothered by the ash that
surrounded them, or asphyxiated by poisonous vapors or gases that were
being poured into the atmosphere.
"The rain of ashes never ceases," the local paper wrote on May 3. "At
about half-past nine, the sun shone forth timidly. The passing of
carriages is no longer heard in the streets. The wheels are muffled.
Many business houses are closed to customers.... The excursion which
had been organized for tomorrow morning cannot take place, the crater
being absolutely inaccessible. Those who had planned to take part will
be informed on what date this excursion will become possible."
On May 4 the paper wrote: "The sea is covered in patches with dead
birds. Many lie asphyxiated on the roads. The cattle suffer greatly,
asphyxiated by the dust of ashes. The children of the planters wander
aimlessly about the courtyards, with their little donkeys, like human
wrecks. They are no longer black, but white, and look as if hoar frost
had formed upon them.... Desolation, aridity and eternal silence prevail
over the countryside."
Next day, May 5, was the day when the mud crater opened. It was followed
by an upsurging wave from the ocean, which added to the fear of the
people, but which receded slowly and with little damage. On the day
following, Pelee was shrouded in a heavy cloud, and ashes and cinders
fell over a wide stretch of country. The surface waters had disappeared.
Trees had been burned of their leaves. Yet a commission appointed to
investigate the condition of the volcano made light of it, saying "the
relative position of the craters and the valleys, leading towards the
sea, enables the statement that the safety of St. Pierre is complete."
Wednesday, May 7, opened one of the saddest and most terrorizing of the
many days that led up to the final eruption. Since four o'clock in the
morning, Mont Pelee had been hoarse with its roaring, and vivid
lightning flashed through its shattered clouds. Thunder rolled over its
head, and lurid glares played across the smoky column which towered
aloft. "Some say," says Heilprin, "that at this time it showed two fiery
crater-mouths, which shone out like fire-filled blast furnaces. The
volcano seemed prepared for a last effort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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