When it was broad daylight, the coast to leeward presented a wild and
terrific scene, lashed as it was by the furious surf, which dashed its
spray half-way up the towering white cliffs, for it was within two hours
of high water. The waves were now really mountains high, and their broad
surfaces were pitted into little waves by the force of the wind, which
covered the whole expanse of waters with one continued foam. On our
weather bow a vessel with her foremast gone was pitching heavily, and at
times nearly buried beneath the wild tumult. Her fate was sealed; to
leeward were the cliffs of the South Foreland, and on our lee-bow lay
the shelving beach of Deal.
"This will be awkward landing, shipmates," said Bramble; "and yet we
must try it. I'll fill my pipe--hope it won't be the last."
Although not said in a serious manner, there were few of us whose hearts
did not flutter responsively to this surmise, for the danger became
every minute more imminent, and we knew what a terrific surf there must
be then running on the shingle beach. But we now rapidly approached the
shore; we were near to the floating light, and in the roadstead not a
vessel remained; all had weighed and preferred being under what canvas
they could bear. At last we were within two cables' lengths of the
beach, and even at this distance from it we were surrounded with the
breakers; the surf broke many feet high, and roared as it rushed up with
a velocity that was appalling, dashing the foam right to the door of
Bramble's cottage, which was forty or fifty yards higher than it
generally gained to even in very bad weather. We now lowered our sails,
stowed them in the boat, and got our oars to pass, backing against the
surf to prevent it from forcing us on the beach until the proper time.
It may not, perhaps, be known to many of my readers that there is a sort
of regularity even in the wild waves; that is, occasionally a master
wave, as it is termed, from being of larger dimensions than its
predecessors, pours its whole volume on the beach; after which, by
watching your time, you will find that two waves will run into one
another, and, as it were, neutralize each other, so that, for a few
seconds, you have what they call a smooth; the safest plan of landing
then is to watch these two chances, either to run in on the master wave,
or to wait till the arrival of the smooth.
The latter is generally preferred, and with good reason, as unless a
boat can be forced in as fast as the master wave runs in, you are worse
off than if you had landed at any other time.
The helm had been resigned to Bramble, who ordered me to go forward with
the boat's painter, a long coil of rope, and stand ready either to leap
out with it or throw it to those on shore, as might be most advisable;
the other men were sitting on the thwarts, their long oars in the
rowlocks, backing out as desired, and all ready to strain every nerve
when the order was given by Bramble to pull in.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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