As at Azurara, the parish church of Santa Maria dos Anjos at Caminha is
in plan very like the Matriz at Villa do Conde. Caminha lies on the
Portuguese side of the estuary of the Minho, close to its mouth, and the
church was begun in 1488, but was not finished till the next century,
the tower indeed not being built till 1556. Like the others, the plan
shows a nave and rather narrow aisles of five bays, and two square
vaulted chapels with an apsidal chancel between to the east. Three large
vaulted chapels and the tower have been added, opening from the north
aisle. Probably the oldest part is the chancel with its flanking
chapels, which are very much more elaborate than any portion of the
churches already described. There are at the angles deep square
buttresses which end in groups of square spire-capped pinnacles all
elaborately crocketed, and not at all unlike those at Batalha. Between
these, in the chancel are narrow round-headed windows, whose mouldings
are enriched with large four-leaved flowers, and on all the walls from
buttress to buttress there runs a rich projecting cornice crowned by a
wonderfully pierced and crested parapet; also not unlike those at
Batalha, but more wonderful in that it is made of granite instead of
fine limestone. The rest of the outside is much plainer, except for the
two doorways, and two tall buttresses at the west end. These two
doorways--which are among the most interesting in the country--must be a
good deal later than the rest of the church, indeed could not have been
designed till after the work of that foreign school of renaissance
carvers at Coimbra had become well known, and so really belong to a
later chapter.
Inside the columns are round, with caps and bases partly round and
partly eight-sided, the hollow octagons interpenetrating with the
circular mouldings. The arches of the arcade are also round, though
those of the chancel and eastern chapels are pointed. Attached to one of
the piers is a small eight-sided pulpit, at whose angles are Gothic
pinnacles, but whose sides and base are covered with cherubs' heads,
vases, and foliage of early renaissance.
But the chief glory of the interior are the splendid tiles with which
its walls are entirely covered, and still more the wonderful wooden
roof, one of the finest examples of Moorish carpentry to be found
anywhere, and which, like the doorways, can now only be merely
mentioned.
The tower, added by Diogo Eannes in 1556, is quite plain with one
belfry opening in each face close to the top and just below the low
parapet which, resting on corbels, ends in a row of curious half-classic
battlements.[90]
[Sidenote: Funchal.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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