not highly stilted as they would of necessity have been, had the three
aisles been of exactly the same height. All the ribs are of considerable
projection and well moulded, and of all, except the diagonal ribs, the
lowest moulding is twisted like a rope. This rope-moulding is repeated
on all the ridge ribs, and in each it is tied in a knot half-way along,
a knot which is so much admired that the whole vault is called 'a
abobada dos nós' or vault of the knots.
The capitals are more curious than beautiful; the lower have clumsy,
early-looking foliage and a large and curious abacus. First each capital
has a square abacus of some depth, then comes a large flat circle, one
for each three caps, and at the top a star-shaped moulding of hollow
curves, the points projecting beyond the middle of the square abaci
below. The higher capitals are better. They are carved with more
elaborate foliage and gilt, and the abaci follow more exactly the line
of the caps below and are carved and gilded in the same way. (Fig. 42.)
Perhaps, however, the chief interest of the cathedral is found in the
sacristy, a fine large room opening from the north transept chapel. On
its tiled walls there hang several large and some smaller paintings, of
which the finest is that of St. Peter. Other pictures are found in the
chapter-house, and a fine one of the crucifixion in the Jesus Chapel
below it; but this is not the place to enter into the very difficult
question of Portuguese painting, a question on which popular tradition
throws only a misleading light by attributing everything to a more or
less mythical painter, Grão Vasco, and on which all authorities differ,
agreeing only in considering this St. Peter one of the finest paintings
in the country.
[Sidenote: Sé, Braga.]
Perhaps the chancel of the cathedral at Braga ought rather
[Illustration: FIG. 42.
SÉ, VIZEU.]
[Illustration: FIG. 43.
BRAGA. W. PORCH OF CATHEDRAL.]
to be left to a chapter dealing with what is usually called the
Manoelino style--that strange last development of Gothic which is found
only in Portugal--but it is in many respects so like the choir chapels
of the church at Caminha, and has so little of the usual Manoelino
peculiarities, that it were better to describe it now. Whatever may be
thought of the chancel, there is no doubt about the large western porch,
which is quite free of any Manoelino fantasies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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