Of the chancel little has been left inside but the vault and the tombs
of Dona Theresa (the first independent ruler of Portugal) and of her
husband Count Henry of Burgundy--very poor work of about the same date
as the chancel. The outside, however, has been unaltered. Below it is
square in plan, becoming at about twenty feet from the ground a
half-octagon having the eastern a good deal wider than the diagonal
sides. On the angles of the lower square stand tall clustered
buttresses, rising independently of the wall as far as the projecting
cornice, across which their highest pinnacles cut, and united to the
chancel at about a third of the height, by small but elaborate flying
buttresses. On the eastern face there is a simple pointed window, and
there is nothing else to relieve the perfectly plain walls below except
two string courses, and the elaborate side buttresses with their tall
pinnacles and twisted shafts. But if the walling is plain the cornice is
most elaborate. It is of great depth and of considerable projection, the
hollows of the mouldings being filled with square flowers below and
intricate carving above. On this stands a high parapet of traceried
quatrefoils, bearing a horizontal moulding from which springs an
elaborate cresting; all being almost exactly like the cornice and
parapet at Caminha, but larger and richer, and like it, a marvellous
example of carving in granite. At the angles are tall pinnacles, and the
pinnacles of the corner buttresses are united to the parapet by a
curious contorted moulding.
[Sidenote: Conceiçao, Braga.]
Opposite the east end of the cathedral there stands a small tower built
in 1512 by Archdeacon João de Coimbra as a chapel. It is of two stories,
with a vaulted chapel below and a belfrey above, lit by round-headed
windows, only one of which retains its tracery. Just above the string
which divides the two stories are statues[93] under canopies, one
projecting on a corbel from each corner, and one from the middle, while
above a cornice, on which stand short pinnacles, six to each side, the
tower ends in a low square tile roof. The chapel on the ground floor is
entered by a porch, whose flat lintel rests on moulded piers at the
angles and on two tall round columns in the centre, while its three
openings are filled with plain iron screens, the upper part of which
blossoms out into large iron flowers and leaves. Inside there is on the
east wall a reredos of early renaissance date, and on the south a large
half-classical arch flanked by pilasters under which there is a
life-size group of the Entombment made seemingly of terra cotta and
painted.
So, rather later than in most other lands, and many years after the
renaissance had made itself felt in other parts of the country, Gothic
comes to an end, curiously enough not far from where the oldest
Christian buildings are found.
CHAPTER VII
THE INFLUENCE OF THE MOORS
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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