Practical Hand Book of Gas, Oil and Steam Engines: Stationary, Marine, Traction; Gas Burners, Oil Burners, Etc.; Farm, Traction, Automobile, Locomotive; A simple, practical and comprehensive book on the construction, operation and repair of all kinds of engines. Dealing with the various parts in detail and the various types of engines and also the use of different kinds of fuel.Rathbun, John B.
Science
Practical Hand Book of Gas, Oil and Steam Engines: Stationary, Marine, Traction; Gas Burners, Oil Burners, Etc.; Farm, Traction, Automobile, Locomotive; A simple, practical and comprehensive book on the construction, operation and repair of all kinds of engines. Dealing with the various parts in detail and the various types of engines and also the use of different kinds of fuel.
Rathbun, John B.
Internal combustion engines; Traction-engines
An automobile or marine engine should be tested for vibrator adjustment
in the following way:
Adjust vibrator so that spring is rather stiff. Start engine and get it
thoroughly warmed up and running at full speed, then slowly and
gradually decrease the tension of the spring until misfiring starts in;
then slowly increase tension until misfiring stops. Increase the tension
no farther; this is the correct adjustment.
Poor vibrator adjustment is the cause of much trouble and expense as it
uses up the batteries and wastes fuel. The principles of correct
adjustment are simple, the adjustment easily made, and there is no
possible excuse for the high current consumption and rapid battery
deterioration met in every day practice. The usual practice of the
average operator is to tighten the vibrator until the spark (observed in
the open air) is at its maximum. This is commonly known as “adjusting
the coil;” shortly after you hear of him throwing out his batteries as
no good. After once getting the vibrator in proper trim the ear will
give much information as to the adjustment.
A vibrator adjusted too lightly will cause “skipping” or misfiring with
the consequent loss of power.
Never attempt to operate a coil that is damp; the coil will be ruined
beyond repair. Above all, do not place the coil in a hot oven to dry, as
the box is filled with wax, and if this is melted it will run out and
reduce the insulation of the coil. Dry coil gradually.
If the batteries are new or too strong the vibrator may be held against
the core of the coil so that the vibrator will not buzz. If this is the
case loosen the screw until it works at the proper speed. If the
batteries are weak, the coil may not be magnetized sufficiently to draw
the vibrator and break the circuit. If this is the case tighten the
screw. If the vibrator refuses to work with the battery and wiring in
good condition, and if you are sure that the current reaches the coil,
look for dirty or pitted contacts on the vibrator.
Should the contact points be dirty, clean them thoroughly by scraping
with a knife or sandpaper. Water on the points will stop the vibrator,
as will oil or grease.
If contact points are of a uniform gray color on their contact surfaces,
and are smooth and flat without holes, pits or raised points, they are
in good condition. If pits, discolorations or projections are noted, the
contact surfaces should be brought to a square, even bearing by means of
a small, fine file. The point should not come into contact on an edge,
but should bear on each other over their entire surface. Do not use sand
paper to remove pitting, as it is almost impossible to secure an even,
flat surface by this means.
It is best to remove the contact screw and vibrator blade for
examination and cleaning, as it is much easier to file the points square
and straight when removed from the coil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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