Practical Hand Book of Gas, Oil and Steam Engines: Stationary, Marine, Traction; Gas Burners, Oil Burners, Etc.; Farm, Traction, Automobile, Locomotive; A simple, practical and comprehensive book on the construction, operation and repair of all kinds of engines. Dealing with the various parts in detail and the various types of engines and also the use of different kinds of fuel.Rathbun, John B.
Science
Practical Hand Book of Gas, Oil and Steam Engines: Stationary, Marine, Traction; Gas Burners, Oil Burners, Etc.; Farm, Traction, Automobile, Locomotive; A simple, practical and comprehensive book on the construction, operation and repair of all kinds of engines. Dealing with the various parts in detail and the various types of engines and also the use of different kinds of fuel.
Rathbun, John B.
Internal combustion engines; Traction-engines
=CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT.= When adjusting the carburetor of multiple
cylinder engine, it is advisable to open the muffler cutout in order
that the character of the exhaust may be seen or heard. With the muffler
open, the color of the exhaust should be noted. With a =PURPLE= flame
you may be sure that the adjustment is nearly correct for that load and
speed; a yellow flame indicates too much air; a thin blue flame too much
gasoline, and is not the best for power.
Before starting for the adjustment test, try the compression, and the
spark. If the compression is poor, try the effects of a little oil on
the piston, which may be introduced into the cylinder through the
priming cup. It will be well to dilute the oil to about one-half with
kerosene. After all trouble with all the parts are clear, you may start
the engine.
Turn on the gasoline at the tank, and after standing a moment see
whether there is any dripping at the carburetor, if there is, the
trouble will probably be due to a leaky float, dirt in the float valve,
or to poor float adjustment. Locate the leak and remedy it before
proceeding further. Dirt on the seat of the needle valve may sometimes
be removed by “flooding” the carburetor, which is done by holding down
the “tickler” lever for a few seconds, causing the gasoline to overflow,
and wash out the dirt.
If the motor has been standing for a time it would be well to “prime”
the motor by admitting a little gasoline into the cylinder through the
priming cup, or by pushing the tickler a couple of times so as to
slightly flood the carburetor.
Now turn on the spark and turn over the engine for the start, taking
care that the throttle is just a little farther open than its fully
closed position. If the engine takes a few explosions and stops, you
will find the nozzle, or that some part of the fuel piping is clogged
which will stop the engine. If the motor gradually slows down, and
stops, with =BLACK SMOKE= issuing from the end of the exhaust pipe, or
=MISFIRES= badly, the mixture is =TOO RICH=, and should be reduced by
cutting down the gasoline supply by means of the needle valve adjusting
screw. If it stops quickly, with a =BACKFIRE=, or explosion at the
supply of gasoline should be =INCREASED= by adjusting the mouth of the
carburetor, the mixture is =TOO LEAN=, and the needle valve.
In all cases be sure that the auxiliary valves are closed when the
engine is running slowly, with the throttle closed, as in the above
test. If they are open at low speed, the mixture will be weakened and
the test will be of no avail.
After adjusting the needle valve as above until the engine is running
(with throttle in the same partially closed position), turn the valve
slowly in one direction or the other until the motor seems to be running
at its best. During the above tests the spark should be left retarded
throughout the adjustment, and the throttle should not be moved.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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