So far is size from being needful to greatness in architecture, that one
of the very grandest pieces of domestic building I ever saw is a little
village inn of extremely early date in a Sussex village which scarcely
anybody has ever heard of, though it stands but two miles from Berwick
Station on the South Coast Railway. This village is Aldfriston. It has
in its little market-place an extremely ancient stone cross, far gone in
decay, having never been touched by restorer. The whole village has an
air of antiquity such as breathes from no other English village I have
ever seen; but older than anything, except the cross, is its
hostelry--no bigger than a well-to-do bailiff’s cottage, showing no
Elizabethan “variety” in its ground-plan, and the front to the street
having but three windows above and one on either side of the doorway.
Coming upon it quite unprepared for seeing anything particular in the
village, this house fairly took my breath away by its exemplification of
the way in which ideal and material greatness differ. It was like
coming, in a newspaper article, upon three or four lines of great and
unknown poetry. Yet it was nothing but a cottage built mightily, and
with a mighty consciousness of being so built. It seems never to have
been touched, except here and there by the house-painter, since the date
at which it was raised, which was probably in the fifteenth century, the
carved foliage in the spandrels of the small arched doorway indicating
that period. An architect learned in mouldings might perhaps fix the
date to within twenty-five years, from those of the cornice. The bedroom
story projects considerably over the ground-floor, and is borne by great
oak brackets, the faces of which are adorned with painted carvings of
figures in mitres, one being St. Hubert, as is shown by the stag at his
feet. The spaces between these brackets are ceiled with a great plaster
“cavetto,” which, together with the brackets, springs from a wide timber
cornice above the door and windows of the ground-floor. In the hollow of
this cornice are four or five grotesque faces, the painting of which,
though fresh, seems, like the painting of all the other decorations, to
be nothing but the original colouring faithfully transmitted. The three
windows of the upper floor are bays, and are carried by great spread
brackets, carved and painted with most curiously quaint and simple
representations of St. George and the Dragon and symbols of his
tradition, the tails of two dragons in the central bracket running in
their extremities into the outlines of a pointed and foliated arch. The
roof is covered in with slabs of ragged stone, thick enough for a London
pavement. The dimensions of the timbers of the roof are proved
inferentially by the fact that the roof-tree has not sagged an inch
under some four hundred years of this burthen; and their mass and power
are expressed artistically by their termination in a cornice of immense
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