Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
color, and at the same time the hair lost its gloss and became brittle.
The condition of the leather after dyeing was anything but satisfactory.
Most serious of all, however, was the appearance among the workers in
the dyeing establishments, and also among the furriers who worked with
the dyed skins, of certain pathological conditions which had hitherto
been unknown. Various skin diseases, eczemas, inflammation of the
eyes, asthmatic affections and intestinal irritations were some of the
afflictions which were directly attributable to the use of fur dyes of
the Ursol type. Medical science was at a loss to know how to treat these
ailments, because their nature was not understood.
Here indeed, were obstacles threatening to destroy all the hopes which
the discovery of the new class of dyes had aroused, and to check at the
outset the possibility of rational progress in the fur dyeing industry.
But the men of science were not content to let the matter drop thus.
Difficult problems had been solved before, and surely there must be
some way of overcoming the objections and deleterious features of a
system of fur dyeing which had so much potential merit. Where hindrances
sprang up in the path of progress, it was the duty of the chemist to
remove them, and when difficulties arose, it was up to him to resolve
them, as far as was humanly possible. So the chemists who had been
responsible for the introduction of the Oxidation Colors set themselves
to the task of eliminating the undesirable or injurious qualities. It
was many years before the results of painstaking effort and persistent
study cleared up the causes of all the objectionable aspects of the fur
dyes, and suggested means of overcoming them satisfactorily. The work
had been directed to the improvement of the dyes and of the methods of
dyeing with them. Purer intermediates were produced, and more easily
soluble ones, so that there would be no possibility of ultra-microscopic
particles of the dye being deposited on the surface of the hair from the
dye solution, instead of being taken up within the hair fibre. It was
this superficial deposition of minute crystals of the dye or of the only
partially oxidized intermediate, on the hair, crystals so fine as to be
invisible in the ordinary high-power microscope, which caused the color
to come off when the furs were brushed or beaten, giving rise to a dust
which was frequently very injurious to the health. Then, mordants were
adopted to help fix the dyes, compounds of copper, iron, and chromium
being used as formerly with the vegetable dyes, and the range of shades
was also increased thereby. Certain of the Oxidation Colors had a tendency
to sublime off the hair, so the dyed hair was chemically after-treated
in such cases to prevent this. The causes of the pathological aspects of
dyeing with the Oxidation fur dyes were not so readily disposed of. But
the adoption of devices to prevent the formation and circulation of dust
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