Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
Vegetable and animal fats and oils are, when pure, neutral substances
formed by the combination of fatty acids with glycerine. They possess
the property of saponification, that is, of forming a soap when treated
with an alkali, the soap being the alkaline salt of the fatty acid.
Under certain conditions, the fat can be split up into free fatty acid
and glycerine by the action of acids, or even water alone. Some fats
on long standing, split up in this way spontaneously in the presence of
moist air. As a general rule, those fats which exhibit this property to a
marked degree are affected by contact with the air, due to the absorption
of oxygen which reacts chemically with the fats, forming what are known
as oxy-fatty acids, usually less soluble, and having a higher melting
point than the original fats. Vegetable and animal fatty materials are
classified on the basis of this phenomenon of absorbing oxygen from the
air, those possessing this quality to a great degree being called “drying
oils,” others being “partially drying,” or “non-drying.” Olive oil,
castor oil, cocoanut oil and cottonseed oil are examples of non-drying
or partially-drying vegetable oils, linseed oil being the most important
drying-oil in this class. Tallow, lard, butter-fat, neats-foot oil are
non-drying animal fats, the drying oils being seal oil, whale oil, and
cod-liver oil.
[Illustration: FIG. 8. TRAMPING MACHINE OR “KICKER.”
(_F. Blattner, Brooklyn, New York._)]
For tanning purposes, this property of absorbing oxygen is important,
because only with drying oils can a true chamois tan be obtained,
non-drying oils acting like mineral oils only as water-proofing materials.
The details of the chamois process are not quite clear, there being
considerable difference of opinion on the matter. But all the studies
on the subject tend to prove that there are at least two phases to the
process: first, the mechanical covering of the fibres with the fat, this
property being common to all fats or oils which may be used; and second,
the combination of the fat with the skin in some chemical way, as a result
of the oxidation of the fat, a characteristic found only in the drying
oils. During the oxidation of the fats, the glycerine in them is converted
to acrolein or acryl-aldehyde, which also aids the tanning. It was at one
time supposed that the tanning action was due to this aldehyde alone,
but a chamois tan can be made with fatty substances from which all the
glycerine has been removed. The evidence on this question, however, is
not quite conclusive.
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