Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
It was not until many centuries later that the dyeing of furs took on
the aspects of a commercial art, and the substances then employed were
chiefly tannin-containing materials such as gall-nuts and sumach, which
in conjunction with certain metallic salts, particularly those of iron,
were capable of producing dark shades. The use of iron compounds to form
dark grey or black colors on leather tanned by means of the tannins, had
been common for a long time, and it was natural that fur dyers should
try to produce such shades on furs in a similar fashion. The use of the
iron-tannin compound as a dye proved to be very effective, and to this day
the production of blacks by means of the vegetable coloring matters has as
a basis an iron-tannate. A formula in common use in the latter seventeenth
and the eighteenth centuries for producing black shades on furs, is the
following:
Lime water 1117 parts
Gall-nuts 1500 „
Litharge 500 „
Salammoniac 65 „
Alum 128 „
Verdigris 64 „
Antimony 64 „
Minium 32 „
Iron filings 128 „
Green copperas 384 „
All these substances except the gall-nuts, the copperas and half the lime
water were boiled up in a cauldron; then the gall-nuts and the copperas
were placed in a bucket and the contents of the cauldron poured in, and
the rest of the lime water added. The mixture was stirred up, allowed to
settle for an hour, and when cool, was ready to be applied by the brush
method. For dyeing by the dip process, a similar mixture was used, only
considerably diluted with water. A study of the formula discloses the
fact that in it are combined killing and mordanting substances as well
as dyeing materials. The lime water, in conjunction with the salammoniac
serves as a killing agent, the verdigris, copperas and alum are mordants,
while the litharge and the minium, both compounds of lead, could possibly
act as mineral dyes, and the iron filings and the antimony took virtually
no part at all in the dyeing, except, perhaps to act in a mechanical way.
The formulas for other shades were made up along similar lines, the chief
constituent of vegetable nature being either gall-nuts, sumach, or both.
A mixture for a chestnut brown, for example, contained gall-nuts, sumach,
and the various other mineral constituents as in the black dye, litharge,
alum, copperas, verdigris, salammoniac, antimony, and in addition, red
lead and white lead. It is evident in both these instances that the shade
obtained was as much the result of mineral dyeing as of vegetable dyeing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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